Buffalo in the news / Opening doors
Chef Victor Parra Gonzalez’s Las Puertas featured in THE NEW YORK TIMES
From “A Buffalo, N.Y., Restaurant With Bona Fides From Acapulco, Quebec and Beyond,” by Michael Kaminer, the New York Times, April 28, 2018:
“The food at Las Puertas (385 Rhode Island Street; laspuertas-buffalo.com), from the chef Victor Parra Gonzalez, marries the earthy cuisine of Mexico with rigorous French technique.
Hung like artwork, 26 white doors decorate the dining room of Las Puertas, Victor Parra Gonzalez’s tiny nouveau-Mexican restaurant in a gray gabled house on Buffalo’s West Side.
‘Every one represents a person of major importance who told me I would not open this restaurant,’ the chef said. ‘Seeing those doors every day tells me we accomplished something.’
The doubters had a point. Mr. Gonzalez’s first restaurant, the ambitious Jaguar at the Bistro near Niagara Falls, closed in 2015. As a follow-up, a deeply personal food venture in Buffalo’s emerging Five Points neighborhood seemed audacious.
A year after Las Puertas’ debut, though, the Acapulco-born chef is having the last laugh. Marrying the earthy cuisine of his birthplace with rigorous French technique, the 29-year-old earned a 2018 James Beard Awards semifinalist as Best Chef/Northeast. His highly photogenic plates—luscious duck breast in subtle pipian verde, translucent scallop aguachile, rich chicken confit in mole rojo—make fond allusions to his homeland while showcasing his precision and wit.”