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PrintWhat We Want: Heirloom beans
Jean-Pierre Thimot
Beans are one of the world’s oldest domesticated crops, with evidence of cultivation dating back 7,000 years. The commercial dry bean market originated in New York State in the mid-1800s, and you can see why. In a seasonal environment, beans—along with grains—were an important part of the winter pantry. Given the health and economic concerns our country currently faces, beans could easily return to that status.
As early as 2006, food gurus were proclaiming that heirloom dry beans were the food trend of the year. While beans have received the sort of appreciation typically reserved for cheese and other such commodities on the West Coast, they have yet to gain the respect of the Midwest (and Buffalo is no exception). I’d like to declare 2012 the year of the bean for Western New York—and if you are unfamiliar with the complex flavor and health benefits associated with these hot little numbers, read on.
Heirloom dry beans taste better than the bland beans we are all accustomed to, just like a fresh heirloom tomato from the garden tastes better than one imported from South America. What makes heirloom beans special is that each bean variety has its own unique characteristics, imparting a singular texture, color, and flavor to dishes. They also contain a persuasive dose of protein and minerals. One cup of beans provides complex carbohydrates (their low glycemic index provides energy over a longer period of time than simple carbs) and as many as sixteen grams of protein. Not to mention that each little bean is packed with magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese.
Naturally low in fat and sodium, properly prepared dried beans can easily replace meat at the table one or more meals a week in a way that does not have to be unsatisfying. And we may as well address the first complaint I hear upon extolling the benefits of beans, since their reputed and unfortunate gassy nature seems to have deterred so many from regular consumption. That can be alleviated almost entirely through soaking and cooking techniques, as we describe for you here.
Heirloom dry beans are still a challenge to find locally. We have many farmers who grow beans, but no one to my knowledge in WNY goes to the painstaking trouble of drying them and selling them commercially.
Based out of Brooktondale, New York (near Ithaca), Cayuga Pure Organics is a collective of farms that has been growing and drying organic beans and grains (like freekah, faro, and spelt) since 2005. The company is truly focused on creating a food system that works. Their use of sustainable farming techniques, their commitment to education and outreach, as well as their focus on providing a healthy and nutrient-dense product is admirable. The results are also tremendously tasty and you can find their products in the kitchens of many of New York City’s best restaurants.
While we hope a local merchant will carry their products in the near future, for now you can purchase them online at www.cporganics.com. Consult an online heirloom bean glossary for details on each variety before ordering.
In my opinion, beans are often best in a recipe for cold salad, soup, or a one-pot meal like cassoulet. The ideal way to enjoy an heirloom is to cook it simply and season it with fresh herbs, good olive oil, salt, and pepper.
Simple soak and cook for dry beans
Many chefs argue that beans lose flavor with soaking. Steve Sando, the bean king from California’s Rancho Gordo advocates for a different soaking and cooking time entirely dependent upon the bean variety. Still others disagree over salting—both how much and when—and whether or not those choices have an impact on how many beans burst during cooking. I am guessing that most Americans would take a reduction in flavor over a case of gas, and that flavoring the beans is entirely up to the palate of the cook. That said, here is our generic gas-reducing recipe for soaking and cooking the heirloom bean of your choice.
In a stockpot, place 1 pound of sorted and rinsed beans in 10 cups of boiling water. Bring to a boil for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, cover and set aside overnight. In the morning, rinse thoroughly several times. Add fresh water to the pot and soak another six hours.
To prepare, dice 2 carrots, 2 stalks of celery, and an onion.
Sauté in olive oil until translucent, adding a crushed clove of garlic towards the end so as not to accidentally burn it. Add the mirepoix to the beans and their water. Bring the beans to boil for about 5 minutes. Now reduce the heat to low and check for doneness about every 15 minutes. If you find that you need to add more water, add hot water. When the beans are done, they will be fork tender.
Remove from the heat. Season liberally with salt and pepper. You can also add fresh chopped herbs, tomato, olive oil, chiles, and/or lemon.
Christa Glennie Seychew is the food and web editor of Buffalo Spree.
