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FOOD REVIEW
Pecan-crusted chicken
kc kratt
The Shamus Restaurant has been a Lockport institution since the original opened in 1950. In the early 1970s, the restaurant took over its current location in a charming 150-year-old home in downtown Lockport, on West Avenue. You won’t find Irish-influenced menu items at the Shamus, but rather American Contemporary cuisine, well made with fresh ingredients.
The décor is pleasant and the ambiance can match any mood; whether you’re with your family, a bunch of friends, or on a hot date, you’ll feel at ease. There is a large seating area downstairs and an upstairs private room for larger parties. If you visit in the warmer months, try to get a table on the outside patio surrounded by a garden and lighted trees. I’ve been to the Shamus a number of times over the last few years, and I’ve basically eaten everything on the menu. Recently, I visited once more with my family.
For starters I had the lobster bisque ($4.25) and my husband ordered the New England clam chowder, which was a Friday special. Originally from Massachusetts, my husband Peter knows his chowder and he proclaimed the Shamus’s version excellent. My bisque was also very good. The broth wasn’t heavy, there was a nice kick of sherry, and the price was right, given the fact that there were multiple pieces of lobster present. Our soups came out at the perfect temperature and we happily finished both.
Another appetizer we enjoyed was the crab cakes ($8.95). I consider myself to be a connoisseur, and these did not disappoint. They were lightly sautéed, not greasy at all, and served with a lemon butter sauce. Is there anything better than lemon, butter, and crab? I think not. Next, we moved on to the blackened sea scallops appetizer ($8.95). Often, I’ll order scallops and they look delicious; then I bite into one and I want to die because the texture is just awful. Not this time. These were firm and cooked perfectly, served on a bed of caramelized onions. I’m not sure how that slightly sweet vanilla flavor worked so well with the scallops, but it did and I am glad I ordered them.
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Blackened sea scallops. |
Entrees come with a salad. I recommend you try yours with the house specialty, a maple-vinaigrette dressing, because it’s both interesting and delicious. The salads are served with a basket of warm rolls, which of course I ate even though by then I was running out of precious space in my stomach. My dinner entrée, the pecan-crusted chicken ($12.95), was both sweet and savory, and full of flavor. I loved the crunch that the pecans gave, and the honey mustard glaze was appealing. The chicken was juicy and tender. I even got my kid to try it, and he really, truly hates everything. My dinner came with my choice of potato and seasonal vegetables, as do most. I skipped the veggies, which looked sort of boring, but I really liked the cheesy mashed potatoes with scallions and peppers. Peter’s twin filet mignon entrée ($19.95) was perfectly cooked as he ordered it and was served with a port wine mushroom sauce. He proclaimed his meal excellent and essentially cleaned his plate. Will is six years old and ordered (what else?) the chicken-finger kid’s meal. With milk. He actually ate most of his food and didn’t create a scene, so I consider that a success.
Other menu options include seafood, duck, pork, and pasta dishes, and there is usually a whole page of seasonal specials available. The lunch menu is a bit more basic, comprised mostly of sandwiches, salads, and burgers. All portions are generous. Desserts look tasty, but I’ve never had enough room to try any.
The Shamus is open every day except Sunday for lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner, as it’s a popular spot. If you show up and have to wait a bit, you can cool your heels in the bar area with a glass of wine or a beer and enjoy some of the well-seasoned snack mix and cozy atmosphere.
One thing that will always keep me coming back to the Shamus, besides the food and the cute bar area, is the owner Ann, who always makes it a point to stop by our table to say hello and make sure we are enjoying our meals. I’ve been meaning to ask her to open on Sundays for brunch because I think the Shamus might be a perfect spot for an after-church pint and omelet.
The Shamus Restaurant
98 West Ave.
Lockport
433-9809
www.theshamus.com
Jennifer Wutz-Lopes likes to drink Snakebites after Mass on Sundays. She lives in Lockport, works in Philadelphia, and blogs at www.Jen14221.com.
