Getting the Red Out: Sun-Born Wines Relieve Winter’s Chill By Bernard Ledermann Now that nature’s snow machine is actively churning over Erie and Ontario, bringing another round of much-too-interesting temperatures, it’s an opportune time to serve some reds with body and structure—first, to soothe the discomfort of chilblain, then to serve with such hearty cold weather fare as stews, casseroles, and roasts. Few types of red wine made so much stir in the ‘90s (seems only yesterday) as the multi-named Syrah- or Shiraz-based wines. No surprise here. Above all, these are wines with flavor. They are non-stop and intensive with much excitement lingering on the after-taste. They are also heady wines, in many instances showing elevated alcohol. Secondly, these reds are appreciated as “noble,” showing age-worthiness and potential to develop into complex wines of great distinction. Lastly, in this age of spiraling wine prices, many Syrah/Shiraz bottlings still offer high dollar-to-quality ratios. From where, you ask, cometh this Syrah/Shiraz excitement? Stepping back a few centuries, Shiraz—both the vine and its fermented produce—were first mentioned in the west around 1293 by none other than that crazy Venetian road knight, Marco Polo. Seems Marco may have done some tasting in or near the Persian (think Iranian these days) city of Shiraz. Apparently M.P.’s accounts of that experience are quite thorough and glowing, which leads one to believe he may have been the original wine advocate. Persian wine-growing and consumption—except in isolated mountain regions—was short-lived owing to the Mohammedan prohibition against alcohol. Enter those fun-loving Christian crusaders, who probably brought cuttings of Shiraz to the Rhone Valley of France by way of Sicily and Italy. By the early 1300s, Shiraz grapes, now given the French spelling ‘Syrah’ and even ‘Sirah’—though that spelling is out of favor—were flourishing in the conditions Syrah knows best: sunny and warm climate and extremely emaciated, arid, and rocky soil. It should be noted, though, that in recent times Syrah has shown its versatility by thriving in many types of soil. Syrah has also rocketed away in other world vinelands, particularly in Australia. There, the original Persian spelling has been retained. Not long after vineyards were established in the various free colonies of the Big Down Under, records show Shiraz had made an appearance. Wine-making must have been relatively low-tech in those years (perhaps convicts were employed as stompers), if such descriptions of red table wines as Mudgee Mud are any indication. Today, Shiraz, also called Hermitage (add name # 4), is Australia’s most widely grown red wine grape in every viticultural district. Aussie wine makers have always known that Shiraz yields wines of highest quality: earthy, yet with gobs of blazingly rich berry fruit as the central attraction, all of which develops into pure satiny pleasure with some bottle age. Those of you at home with the U.S. wine scene know that one of the dramatic developments in California is Syrah’s coming-of-age as a bottled varietal. No longer the handy blending grape used to give hollow Cabernets some “guts,” California Syrahs are racking up new devotées daily. West coast Syrah really gained the spotlight after 1985 with the introduction of Preston Wine Cellar’s Syrah/Sirah blend. Today, Syrah acreage is expanding like deep space and is up over 2,000 percent since 1980. For a while, some California growers thought the Petite Sirah growing on their land was the same as the French thing under discussion here. Not so, as later DNA testing has shown. True, Petite Sirah turns into fine wines also, but that’s the subject of another column. France: Syr-ious Wines Now that we’ve looked at the lay of Syrah lands, it’s time to “paper taste” a few creations of the varietal’s noteworthy producers. The northern third of the Rhone River Valley in southeastern France, roughly between Lyon and Cornas, will be our first stop. Grapes from Hermitage, along with Syrah from the giddy heights of nearby Côte Rotie (“roasted slope,” from the broiling sun overhead) produce the country’s finest wines of type, and the releases of certain vintners in great vintage years will challenge the royalty of Bordeaux and Burgundy. It is said that the first duty of a Rhone wine is to be red—and 95% of them are. Might we add that the wines should also be only the high-starred Hermitage and Côte Rotie and should originate in the cellars of either Chave, Chapoutier, Guigal, or Jaboulet. From these producers come world-renowned, individualistic wines. Chave’s wines can be dramatically elegant, if over-priced. Jaboulet’s fully-matured Hermitage, especially the ‘La Chappelle’ plot, is a supple, harmonious number. Guigal’s Côte Rotie, possibly owing to the use of new, sweet oak, packs a fat lot of berry fruit and spiciness. Chapoutier’s wines sometimes show a little style of each fellow vigneron, but can be tannic, albeit ripe, and offer an engaging singed-toffee kind of aroma and taste. No matter who bottles them, all these 100% Syrah offerings are considered the most “muscular” of all reds. In their youth they are purplish-opaque, change to deep ruby as maturation begins, and can yield great dry raspberry taste. Bottle life, depending on how healthy the harvest, can easily be from eight to 20 years after vintage date. Northern Rhone wines are also in short supply and costly, but they are dependable $100 wines that taste like $100. If collecting is your passion, you already know how scarce are the Hermitage/Côte Rotie wines of 1980, ‘83, ‘88, and ‘89. Same for the 1990, ‘95, and ‘97. It was a headliner year and wines will be priced accordingly. Recently tasted: the ‘97 Jaboulet Hermitage, “La Chappel.” Humus and violets in the nose, intense, chewy licorice on the palate with a layer of berry fruit. Cellar for ten years. The Cornas growing district may not have the reputation of the northern cousins, but can be price-worthy and should be tracked down. At their best, and when tasted blind, they give the”feel” of greatness. Recently tasted: the ‘96 Noel Verset Cornas ($36)—rich and juicy with great concentration of cherry, berry, and roasted almonds. Cellar this beauty for at least eight years. Australia: Shiraz-Berries On to the land where the Shiraz grows in abundance and the wines are for the most part sanely priced. At the top of the quality pyramid resides the peerless Penfolds Grange ‘Hermitage’ (another name for Shiraz “down there”). Grange Hermitage is not so much the grape’s doing as it is a Penfolds feat. Voluptuous and spicy with complex fruit flavors in its youth, its structure is as magnificent as the Sydney opera house. It develops rather like a Bordeaux, sometimes unfolding bouquet and flavor called ‘saddle leather after a ride with the hounds’ (that’s non-slanderous). Collectors, be prepared to pay the price. With G.H. one of the world’s ten best, we’ll never see another bottle below $150. Of course anything named Penfolds or Rosemount assures us of quality Shiraz bottlings. Consistent high quality marks the releases of these wineries, and styles can be robust with chocolatey hints or elegant with very peppery notes. Look for Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz ($29), or the graceful Bin 128 ($19). From Rosemount you’ll seldom miss with Balmoral Syrah—hmm, a French wine-maker?—($36), their Show Series Shiraz ($22), or the all-American favorite, their Diamond Shiraz ($12). Also ask your wine merchant about Deakin Victoria ($12), d’Arenberg ‘Footbolt’ Shiraz ($15), or Angoves amazingly jammy Reserve ($10). California: The 90’s Shiraz Revolution We’ve noted that our largest wine-producing state is mastering the construction of some splendorous Syrahs. Lately we’ve sampled a number of winners. Gaining steadily high scores has been the Fess Parker (yes, Ol’ Dan’l Boone hisself) ‘96 American Tradition Reserve ($27). Simply a killer with fruit, pepper and a powerfully long after-palate which will last you into tomorrow. While you’re at it, try Parker’s regular Santa Barbara County Syrah. More fruit, less money ($18), and you’ll have it more often. Rounding out our Top Five “notables,” we find the ‘97 Swanson (Napa, $35), which will swamp you with fruit and spices. Age five years. Another Napa Syrah star is Robert Pecota’s ‘97 ($26 ), the most Rhone-ish California Syrah yet tasted. Hold for 8-10 years. From near Plymouth, CA, in Amador County comes the ‘97 Sobon Estate offering. Of medium weight, it shows suave aromas and flavor of brambly huckleberries. A treat. Finally, R.H. Phillips ‘EXP’ (at one time stood for “experimental”, but their Syrah is hardly in that stage any more) at $13 from the Central Valley. Good sturdiness and interesting white pepper flavors. Memorable and priced correctly. It is hoped this Syrah/Shiraz surface-scratching will lead you to exciting new discoveries of your own. There will certainly be enough of the stuff produced in the coming decade, from exalted collector’s rarities to respectable everyday bottles. For now, warm yourself with robust meals and red wines of cachet and lusciousness. Put Syrah/Shiraz where your mouth is sometime before the summer equinox. A 32-year resident of Western New York, Bernie Ledermann is now based in Raleigh, NC, where work in wine retailing and participation in professional tasting seminars make for “his kind” of retired life. SUBSCRIBE NOW Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top