Restaurant Review
Of Art and Appetite
By Ann Blask
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The Salon at the Roycroft Inn.
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ROYCROFT INN
East Aurora’s Roycroft Inn is as much a museum as it is a restaurant. Some of the original furniture, made by the Roycrofters at the early part of the century, is still in use. Burned into the wood of these pieces is the distinctive Roycroft emblem, an R encircled with a double crossed orb. Also original are the unusual stained glass lights and wall sconces.
Each room in this magnificent National Historic Landmark restaurant/inn is unique. The Lounge, part of the original building, started out as the print shop of writer-philosopher Elbert Hubbard, in 1897. Under Hubbard’s direction and principles, the Arts & Crafts Movement continued to flourish in East Aurora, attracting skilled craftsmen who became known as the Roycrofters.
One of their fundamental beliefs was that art was an expression of man’s joy in his work. Not surprisingly, the self-contained community became a mecca for artisans with such notables as Frank Lloyd Wright, Gustav Stickley, and Dard Hunter adding insight and support. As Hubbard’s fame grew, he spent his time lecturing, writing and hosting scores of dignitaries, including Teddy Roosevelt, Henry Ford, and Andrew Carnegie. Because of his renown, more rooms were added, including the Library (which today seats about 30 for dinner), Hubbard Hall (the main dining room), and the Larkin Room, which is actually an enclosed porch with large windows facing the garden. A recent addition is the outdoor Peristyle, a covered walkway along the gardens, which is used for lunch and dinner from the first warm day until fall.
Displayed throughout the restaurant are many of Hubbard’s famous “Motto Boards,” reflecting his beliefs and his penchant for one-liners. One reads, “Self-Reliance.” Another, “Self Control.” Even the menu quotes some thoughts from Hubbard’s famous Motto Book. Here are a few to ponder: “Recipe for Having Friends: Be One.” “Live to laugh, to love, and to learn.”
Besides such words of wisdom, both the lunch and dinner menus offer good variety with some updated preparations of old favorites. The Grilled Rack of Pork, always a treat, is stuffed with Gorgonzola, pine nuts, and sage, and finished with applejack demi-glace. A must-try sandwich from the lunch menu is a Portobella Mushroom Burger served with roasted red peppers and sun-dried tomato pesto.
Along with the restaurant’s 1995 face-lift came some innovative dining ideas as well. During the summer months, Wednesday is Grill Night. Everything—including make-your-own-burgers, fish, rack of lamb, steaks, and skewered vegetables—is grilled. A perfect drink for this meal is German Sangria, a melange of fresh fruits and Reisling wine served well chilled. You get a glass and a fork, so you can savor the fruit while you sip the wine.
Another popular event is Afternoon Tea, offered the first Thursday of every month. Of course, what would a tea be without finger-sandwiches and luscious scones slathered with Devonshire cream.
Midday or dinnertime, my favorite room is the Salon, a reception/lounge area, an ideal spot for a relaxing drink or a chat with a friend. Hand-painted canvas murals on each wall depict the seven most important places at the turn of the twentieth century. You’ll probably recognize six of them: Egypt, Athens, Rome, Venice, Paris, and London. The seventh is East Aurora.
Roycroft Inn
40 South Grove St., East Aurora 652-5552
Lunch: Mon-Fri
Dinner: Daily; Sunday Brunch
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Sheldon Viele mural at Just Pasta.
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As many Buffalonians know by now, there’s more than pasta at Just Pasta. You’ll always find many other tempting options, one of which is another Italian classic: risotto. Served as a main course, the risotto always has a nouveau flair. One of my favorite preparations is Risotto with Wild Mushrooms, Duck, and Asiago Cheese. Many of the dishes are epicurean versions of traditional Tuscan favorites. Seared Scallops are served with Tuscan white beans, red onion, tomato, artichokes, garlic, and rosemary. Another modern twist is the Chicken and Spinach Ravioli sauced with an herb brodo and Romano shavings. No matter what you order, the first treat will be the small dish of freshly made pesto and crusty bread for dunking. But be careful. This is one of those I’ll-bet-you-can’t-eat-just-one kind of things. If that’s not enough for a starter, the signature antipasto is Whole Roasted Garlic with Chevre and Grilled Onion Focaccia.
In addition to daily specials, which always include a pasta dish (homemade, of course), the menu features a vegetarian entrée, and a variety of fish, seafood, and meat choices. The Prix Fixe dinner menu, offered Monday-Thursday, includes a salad, pasta, dessert, and coffee for $14.50. Even if you’re not a dessert eater, take home a piece of White Satin, a scrumptious little goody made with a nut crust, semi-sweet chocolate, and raspberry puree, topped with white chocolate.
Food is only half the pleasure. Stunning murals, many based on operatic themes, are the focal point of every room. Behind the bar is a huge depiction from Faust. Dividing the two dining rooms are murals with scenes from Aida, and on the side wall a life-size painting thought to be a street scene in Venice. The murals were all created by noted artist Sheldon Viele who was a set designer at Shea’s Buffalo in the 20’s. Just Pasta owner Ron Morga acquired the artwork in 1995 when the restaurant was renovated and enlarged. Fortunately the construction did not alter the building’s original structure. Designed by Buffalo’s first female architect, Elizabeth Bethune, in the early 1900’s, it was for many years a food market with an upstairs bakery. Like the Lafayette Hotel, which Bethune also designed, it is a splendid reminder of Buffalo’s acclaimed architectural legacy.
If you need a little brush-up on your composers or architects, chat a bit with Dan Reisch, a bartender/waiter who also acts as wine connoisseur, local historian and opera aficionado. He can tell you about the specials-of-the day as well as the special nuances of each painting.
Just Pasta
307 Bryant St. 881-1888
Lunch: daily except Saturday
Dinner: Monday-Saturday
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Bangkok Crab Cakes at Gallery 101 Bistro.
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It’s upbeat, contemporary, and a perfect adjunct to the ever-growing downtown Buffalo Theater scene. Located next door to the new Shea’s, Gallery 101 Bistro has the most coveted tables for pre-theatre dining and after-the-show refreshments. It has also become a popular lunch spot for those who want someplace a bit more eclectic to perk up their business day.
The exhibitions, which change every two or three months, always feature local artists. Curator Missy Crowell has no set criterion. She might select flat wall art, mobiles, or sculpture. Fortunately, the open, expansive style of the dining room and bar offer an ideal venue for any medium. Some of the artwork is part of the permanent dècor. An eye-catching piece near the entrance is a modern metal sculpture by Paul Knoblaugh, entitled “Side Salad.” You won’t see any semblance of lettuce or radishes. It is, instead, a melange of shapes and colors in asymmetric form.
The lighting throughout has been masterfully planned to showcase each individual work, whether a painting, hanging sculptures, or the trickling waterfall. There are even lights under the bar to add focus to the unique barstools, also created by Knoblaugh.
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Gallery 101 Bistro dining area.
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The menu, which ranges from panini sandwiches to full course dinners, has a refreshingly intriguing Asian accent. Bangkok Crab Cakes are finished with red chili lime and coconut basil sauce. Appetizers include Fresh Shrimp Summer Rolls with a Vietnamese dipping sauce, and Saigon Kick, squid stuffed with seasoned pork filling.
Co-owner Del Brett discovered these recipes on a culinary trip to the Far East, where he had hands-on experience cooking at restaurants, hotels, and in private homes.
Less exotic, but equally interesting entrées include Grilled Eggplant Napoleon, layered with spinach and roasted red peppers, and served with polenta and ginger carrot puree, and Pecan Crusted Chicken, served with garlic mashed potatoes and Dijon mustard sauce.
For lighter fare, the Late Night Menu features lots of Bistro Pizza and Focaccia creations. One of the favorites is Steak Calabrese Pizza, which was fashioned after a hoagy. It’s topped with sauteed peppers, onions, thinly sliced steak, and Monterey Jack cheese.
Another plus for this restaurant: There’s not a bad table. The favorites are the booths near the large front windows. They show off great views of Main Street and are a perfect spot for people-watching.
Gallery 101 Bistro
101 Theatre Place, 845 6400
Lunch: Monday-Saturday
Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday
Closed Sunday, except when there’s a show at Shea’s
Ann Blask is a freelance writer from Orchard Park.
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