Cooking 101: The Simple Art of Grilling By Joe George Today we have many options when it comes to cooking. The kitchen toys and time saving devices are seemingly endless. There are the obvious apparatuses such as gas and electric stoves and microwave ovens, and then there are newer technologies such as induction ovens. Induction heat is based on a magnetic coil that generates a current to the cookware and rapidly heats the cookware through magnetic friction, thus rapidly heating the food (the future is now). But in this age of faxes, cell phones, and beepers, nothing that can give a person the same culinary satisfaction as the simple act of cooking foods over a live fire. It’s instinctual, almost primal. This form of cooking, of course, is the oldest method known to humans. No one really knows for sure, but it’s speculated that—like many things—it was first done by accident. Most likely there was a forest fire caused by lightening, and afterwards our ancient ancestors feasted on whole charred carcasses of animals unable to escape the blaze. Eventually fire was tamed and we evolved into, among other things, the backyard cooks that we are today. The types and amount of grills and equipment on the market today is dizzying, but they can be divided into two basic categories: gas or charcoal. Within these two categories you can spend as little as $9.99 on a small charcoal grill from the local hardware store, or up to $8000.00 for an entire mail-order outdoor cooking suite that would make a professional chef green with envy. While spending more will generally yield a better piece of equipment, it does not make you a better cook. If used correctly a humble little charcoal grill will cook a steak just as well as an expensive and flashy model. Gas grills and charcoal grills both have their advantages and disadvantages. Most will agree that charcoal or wood yields a much better flavor, but the gas grill is convenient and consistent. I, personally, used to adhere to the purist approach of cooking only over coals or wood, to such an extent that I built an adobe oven and grill in my backyard. “No, no, no!” I would firmly state, “I will not cook over gas outside, that’s for suburbanites.” That was until I had a divine moment of clarity (a whim, actually) and spontaneously bought a propane grill at a local “big box” store. With a simple push of the neon-red button—whoomph, instant fire! Now, I find myself using both types of grills equally and sometimes even at the same time. The terms grilling and barbecuing are often used interchangeably but are technically quite different. Grilling entails cooking somewhat quickly with medium or high heat and over a direct or indirect heat source, meaning the food is either cooked directly over the heat source or set off to one side. Grilling is a dry-heat cooking method; it does not tenderize foods and should only be done with tender cuts of meat—such as steaks or chops—and also poultry, fish and vegetables. A true barbecue, on the other hand, is cooked very slowly over low to medium and indirect heat for a long period of time. The long cooking time and low heat source will tenderize even the toughest cuts of meat. And it’s because of this that sturdy cuts of meat—such as brisket or ribs—are most often the choice for barbecuing. There are a few fundamental rules to follow with grilling. For example, there is the fire itself to consider. If using a gas grill this doesn’t present too much of an issue: simply preheat the grill for at least 10 minutes prior to cooking, and then adjust the temperature accordingly. With coals or wood, though, you should allow at least 40 minutes for the fire to burn itself down properly in order to establish a thick bed of glowing embers. One of the quickest ways to ruin a grilled meal is to cook directly over a “young” or raging fire with flames licking up and around the food. Most foods will burn quickly and at the same time be raw or undercooked in the center. Flare-ups should also be avoided; these occur when fat, marinade, or sauce drips from the food onto the hot coals or heating elements and causes spontaneous flames. Flare-ups cause an undesirable carbon flavor on the food, and they can also be dangerous. If this happens, immediately move the food to an area of the grill with a lower temperature until the situation is controlled. Regardless of which type of fuel you use, cleaning and oiling your grill is essential. This can be accomplished—albeit very carefully—with the aid of a heavy wire brush, a lightly oiled rag, and a long set of tongs. Besides the food that is to be grilled, another consideration is the seasoning, if any. Foods cooked simply over fire with nothing more than a light application of oil, salt, and pepper are delicious on their own, but the addition of a sauce, marinade, spices, or herbs will bring the flavor to another level. Sauces (or mops, as they are more appropriately called) lend moisture as well as flavor, which is something to consider with lean foods like chicken breasts, which have a tendency to dry out when grilled. Marinades work thrice-fold: they add flavor, moisture, and, to a certain extent, tenderize. Marinades can also be used as a mopping sauce, but for health concerns cooked food should never be placed back into any remaining or previously used marinade because it will contain uncooked juices from the meat or fish. If using a marinade to baste with, it is best to keep a portion of it reserved from the raw food, which can later be used as a “mop.” Another effective form of adding intense flavor to foods is to rub a spice and/or herb mixture onto it prior to grilling. Because there is generally no liquid involved with this method (sometimes the food is coated with a small amount of oil) these mixtures are appropriately referred to as “dry-rubs,” or simply “rubs.” As with marinades, foods that are coated with a dry-rub should be allowed to absorb the flavor of the dry-rub for at least one hour prior to cooking. Cooking times and grill temperatures vary depending on the food being grilled, and also if it is marinated, mopped or coated with a dry-rub. For example, a steak that is grilled with only salt and pepper is best done over medium-high heat. If the same steak is coated with BBQ or mopping sauce—which often has a high sugar content—it will benefit from a more moderate heat, lest the sauce burn before the steak is cooked sufficiently. Tuna or swordfish benefit from a high heat sear, while shrimp kebobs lose less moisture if cooked over medium heat. Generally, vegetables are best cooked over medium-high heat; the high heat evaporates some of their juices and caramelizes their natural starch and sugar, and ultimately concentrates their flavor. New grill technology enables you to cook an entire meal outdoors, thus staying out of the traditional kitchen on a hot summer day. Now, many gas grills have a side burner (individual stovetop) as a standard feature. A side burner enables you to cook with pots and pans, turning your grill into a veritable outdoor kitchen. If you lack a side burner, or use a charcoal grill, a small pot or skillet can be carefully placed directly on the grill. Remember, one doesn’t have to spend a ton of money on a great grill set up. If done correctly, virtually anything can be cooked on a grill—even breads and pizza. Civilizations around the globe have often chosen to cook outside during warm weather. As someone who has spent much of his adult life in hot restaurant kitchens during the summer, cooking outside is a breath of fresh air. Grilled Pizza Marguerite (Pizza Rustica) Grilling pizza may seem somewhat unconventional, but is extremely delicious and easy to prepare. Cooking bread products over a live fire imparts a very different flavor. It can be cooked on a gas or charcoal grill, but for it to cook thoroughly the grill must have a lid that can be closed, creating an oven effect. The variable possibilities abound with this recipe, but the key factor is to have all of your ingredients and implements ready, or as the French say, mise en place (everything in its place), because the entire cooking process takes a matter of minutes. A simpler variation of this recipe is to grill only the dough, which has been seasoned with olive oil and herbs, for a natural accompaniment to any grilled meal. Yield: 2 small pizzas For the dough: 1 cup warm water 1 package active yeast 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour Combine the water and yeast in a small bowl and set aside until the yeast shows signs of activity. Place the flour into a large bowl, mound up the flour and make an indentation in the center. Pour the water and yeast mixture into the indentation along with the salt and olive oil, and, using a wooden spoon stir the flour into the liquid. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead it for about 10 minutes. Place the dough into a clean bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. Allow the dough to rest for approximately 1 hour, or until doubled in size. For the pizza: 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 large ripe tomatoes, seeds removed and diced 8 large basil leaves, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup olive oil 8 oz. grated mozzarella cheese (about 2 cups) In a small bowl combine the garlic, tomatoes, basil, salt, and olive oil; set aside. Preheat the grill. If using a gas grill heat one side on high and the other on medium; with a charcoal grill a two-tiered fire has to be prepared, which will create high heat on one side of the grill and medium heat on the other. Cut the dough into two equal pieces and roll them out on a well-floured surface until they are approximately 12 inches in diameter. Place one piece of dough onto a lightly floured baking sheet and gently slide the dough onto the hot side of the grill. After one minute, using a wide spatula and your hands, gently rotate the dough to ensure even cooking. After the underside of the dough shows grill marks and has begun to brown turn it over and move it to the side of the grill with low heat. Immediately sprinkle half of the tomato mixture across the dough, followed by half of the grated cheese. Close the lid to the grill and allow the pizza to cook for a couple of minutes, or until the cheese begins to melt. Lift the lid, rotate the pizza, and relocate it to the hot side of the grill; close the lid and allow it to cook another minute, or until the cheese is thoroughly melted, and the underside is nicely browned. Transfer the pizza to a wire cooling rack, or a clean kitchen towel, and allow the pizza to cool for 10 minutes before serving. Meanwhile repeat the procedure with the remaining pizza. Lemon-Garlic Marinade (for chicken and fish) Yield: 1 cup 6 peeled garlic cloves 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon turmeric 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/3 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice 2/3 cup olive oil Combine all of the ingredients in a food processor and purée until smooth. Store in a glass jar with a tight fitting lid. To use: pour just enough of the prepared marinade on your choice of chicken, firm fleshed fish or shrimp; toss it to coat, and allow the food to marinate in the refrigerator for at least one hour prior to grilling. Be careful of flare-ups when the food is initially placed on the grill. Remaining marinade may be used as a mopping sauce to add extra flavor and moisture during grilling (so long as it hasn’t come in contact with raw fish or poultry). Alternately, remaining marinade may be stored for up to two weeks refrigerated and covered. Joe George is a graduate of the Culinary Institue of America and has been head chef at numerous Buffalo restaurants. He is currently a teacher and freelance writer. Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top