Cozy Cold Weather Retreats
By Ann Blask
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Colden Mill.
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Colden Mill
Barnwood walls and heavy beams set the scene for this handsomely rustic restaurant in the heart of ski country south of Buffalo. Inside and out, the Colden Mill is an aesthetic treat.
The original building was part of a grain mill dating back to the 1830s until it was turned into a restaurant in 1983, thanks to Robert and Karen Bothwell, who bought the property, and to local architect, Jim Halfpenny, who supplied the magic.
Part of his artistry was incorporating many of the old farm tools and antiques into a picturesque dining room with a small upstairs loft. An old spinning wheel, a grain belt hanging from the ceiling, and worn-out wooden skis are part of the eclectic mix. The oak tables, set with woven placemats, plank floors, and a wood-burning stove, blend in perfectly. Tiny white lights trim the windows inside and focus on the continuously churning waterwheel outside.
Nature supplied the rest. Situated on a woody hillside edging Cazenovia Creek, the restaurant is a landmark at the center of this tiny hamlet that some people refer to as “Colden-on-the-Creek.”
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Colden Mill.
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For an appetizer, or even a light supper, the Herb and Cheese Bruschetta and/or one of his famous soups are a good choice. Favorites are Cream of Potato with roasted garlic and Lobster Bisque. Among the daily specials that round out the menu, one favorite is Smoked Salmon Ravioli with a tomato-basil burre blanc sauce. It can be ordered as an appetizer or a main course.
The restaurant also features an Early Bird Menu Tuesday through Thursday, with many of the same entrées at reduced prices.
The entire menu, including the wine list, is available online at Restaurant.com. Also featured is a virtual tour of the restaurant. “People are even ordering online,” says Newman. “We get faxes and email from people driving in from the city and can have their meal and their favorite bottle of wine ready by the time they get here.
Colden Mill Restaurant
8348 Boston Colden Rd.
(Route 240)
Colden
Phone 941-9357
Fax 941-9178
Tues-Sat 4:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sun- 3:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Coles
Since the end of Prohibition in 1934, Coles has been an Elmwood Avenue institution. One of the oldest restaurants in the city, it’s noisy, it’s fun, it’s the place to meet friends, share a drink, get a bite to eat, and enjoy the warmth and upbeat energy that characterize the thriving Elmwood district.
The “Coles” name has remained the same through the years; so has the inviting pub-style atmosphere. The only changes since current owner Dave Shatzel took over twenty-seven years ago are an addition to the main floor dining room and, of course, some of the interesting paraphernalia and collectibles that spice up the décor.
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Coles.
Photo: Jim Bush |
What makes Coles so special? “This is what Buffalo is all about,” explains manager Mike Shatzel. “It’s a melting pot. Our patrons range from twenty-one year old students to seniors who are well into their seventies. People are blue-collar as well as corporate and professional. There are neighborhood regulars and well-known personalities.”
While it’s not uncommon to have people three-deep at the bar, the busiest time of the year is from the day before Thanksgiving until New Years. Visiting out-of-towners want to stop in for a bit of nostalgia, and friends gather for a celebratory night out or for one of Coles traditional holiday eggnog drinks.
Along with all the toasting and celebrating, there are lots of food choices, ranging from typical tavern specialties like steaks and burgers along with a huge assortment of sandwiches, salads, appetizers, salads, and munchies. A longstanding favorite is the 1104 Elmwood, named for the restaurant’s address. This hearty, grilled sandwich on marble rye, is stuffed with turkey, ham, Swiss cheese, and onions.
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Coles.
Photo: Jim Bush |
If you like Mexican food, you’ll find plenty of that as well from the Baja Wrap sandwich, rolled with chicken, rice, and black beans in a cheddar jalapeño tortilla, to the grilled Chipolte BBQ Flank Steak and the Chorizo, Goat Cheese, and Red Onion Quesadilla appetizer.
Sometimes it’s not just the food that makes people want to come back to a restaurant, it’s also the staff. Bartender Don Pappas, who’s been pouring drinks since opening night, proves that. “He’s the best bartender in the city,” declares Mike. “Everyone knows him and he knows them. If he’s ever served you, he remembers not only your name, but what you drink.” That kind of camaraderie is surely one of the secrets to Coles’ years of ongoing success.
Coles
1104 Elmwood Ave.
886-1449
Open daily 11:00 a.m. - 4:00 a.m.
Wellington Court
Snugly tucked on a quiet side street in St. Catharines, this two-story Edwardian house is where Wellington Court owner Claudia Peacock grew up. Though the three small dining rooms that comprise the restaurant are each beautifully designed with dark tone walls, black and white linens, and upholstered chairs, you still feel that you are a guest in a private home.
The change from family residence to restaurant was rather gradual. Claudia began with a small lunchtime café/deli counter serving her homemade salads, roasted chickens, and sandwiches. One night she decided to stay open for dinner. After that, things changed.
Today, working alongside Claudia, is son Erik, the head chef. Adding a further family touch, paintings by daughter Regan, a Toronto artist, decorate the walls.
“My mother had the vision and the courage,” says Erik. “The only thing I did and, after studying cooking at George Brown College, was to help transform it from café to restaurant. But it’s really more than that. Food is everything to our family, beginning with my grandmother who is a connoisseur of fine food, particularly Japanese and Scandinavian.”
One of his special dishes, Gravlax, reflects the family’s Scandinavian heritage. Erik covers the salmon with salt, sugar, and dill, then weighs it down with a case of beer for three days, turning it once a day. After the three-day curing, he brushes off the salt and serves it as an appetizer with a sprinkle of Aquavit, a caraway flavored vodka. Though it is not part of the daily menu, you can always call several days before and request it.
In addition to daily specials, the standard menu changes weekly, depending on seasonal availability from local farmers and growers. A glorious appetizer when cherry tomatoes are at their best is a combination of tomatoes and crumbled feta cheese on flatbread with fresh purslane greens. This is topped with a freshly made Cabernet syrup and olive oil.
Combining textures is Erik’s forte. Grilled Beef Tenderloin, a simple but popular entrée, is served on a potato pancake with a tropical fruit salsa and spicy mango coulis. In such a combination, he points out, there is the crunchiness of the potato, the velvety smoothness of the avocado and mango, and the rich texture of perfectly aged beef.
Even pizza gets the gourmet treatment. One favorite is topped with wild mushrooms with truffled artichokes and Asiago cheese.
People often stop in for just a pizza and a bottle of wine, or for an appetizer or two. Whether it’s for lunch, dinner, or a late supper, a candle-lit table at the Wellington Court is a wonderfully cozy place to be.
Wellington Court Restaurant
11 Wellington St.
St. Catharines, Ontario
905-682-5518
Open Tues-Sat
Lunch 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
Dinner 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Ann Blask is a consultant and freelance writer from Orchard Park
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