Ski Country Restaurants

By Ann Blask
All photos in this article by Jim Bush.
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The Crystal Dining Room in
the Peek n' Peak Main Lodge.

You don’t have to be a serious skier to join in the fun and enjoy the amenities of Western New York’s ski country. All you need is a pretty Alpine sweater and a pair of snow pants, and you’re ready for winter dining at one of our many ski-country restaurants. If you are a skier, you’ll be happy to know that a fine meal awaits you after a tough day on the slopes.

Peek’n Peak
The Main Lodge at the Peek’ n Peak resort is an impressive Tudor-style mansion, with dark timbers, leaded glass windows, and lots of stone accents. Not only does the resort have a variety of winter activities, such as downhill and cross country skiing, snowboarding, and tubing, it also offers a number of dining options, from fast-food eateries near the lifts, to the stately Royal Court Dining Room, in the lodge.

Much of the room is fashioned from masterfully crafted wood panels and furnishings, acquired from the demolished Reed Mansion in Erie, Pennsylvania, which was built in the mid-1800s. Most noteworthy, are two small dining rooms, off the Royal Court Room: the Crystal Room, with its brilliant chandelier; and the Ebony Room, with walls and mantle made from ebony-dyed English oak.

If the décor is impressive, so too are the menus, with a focus on steak and seafood. The House Special is Seafood Strudel, a Phyllo enclosed mix of shrimp and scallops, served in a pool of sherried lobster cream sauce. Another favorite is Maryland Crab Cakes, which can be ordered as an appetizer or main course.

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Peek n Peak’s Royal Court Room.
A separate listing of daily seafood offerings, based on availability, is extensive. Swordfish, salmon, mahi-mahi, and Chilean Sea Bass are often featured, and can be prepared any way you choose.

For lunch, the popular choices include hearty sandwiches, such as Shaved Prime Rib and Open Face Reuben. In the salad department, the winner is Sesame Chicken Salad, a sliced, sesame-crusted chicken breast served atop mixed greens, snow peas, bean sprouts, and crunchy Oriental noodles.

Soup, of course, is a mainstay for winter warmth-seekers. In addition to the always-available Seafood Bisque and French Onion Soup au Fromage, the daily specials are standouts. They have included Bavarian Cheddar Ale and Sauerkraut, Potato, and Sausage Soup, flavored with dill.

You may decide to jump right from soup to sweets, once you see the dessert menu. Along with various pies and sundaes, are some tempting cheesecakes, including Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Cheescake, which is as good as what you licked off mom’s wooden spoon.

Peek’n Peak
1405 Olde Road
Findley Lake
355-4141
Open Daily. Lunch 11:30 a.m.- 2 p.m.
Dinner from 5:00 p.m.

Bavarian Cheddar Ale Soup
4 oz butter
5 cups diced onion
1 cup diced celery
1 cup red pepper
1 tbsp minced garlic
6 and a half cups chicken stock
1 cup roux (equal amounts of
flour and butter, lightly cooked
into a paste)
6 oz sharp cheddar cheese
10 oz American cheese
1 tsp salt
2 tsp white pepper
2 tsp dry mustard
2 and one half cups half and half
5 cups broccoli, blanched & chopped
half cup of beer (any kind will do)

Combine the first 5 ingredients and sauté over moderate heat until the vegetables are tender. Add the stock and bring to a boil. While the mixture is boiling, mix in the roux, a little at a time until it is lightly thickened. Add the cheese and mix until the cheese is melted. Reduce the heat and stir in the seasoning, half and half, and the broccoli. Simmer 5 minutes. Add the beer and simmer 15 minutes more.

Serve with garlic and Parmesan crostini. Makes about 5 quarts.

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The Dog Bar
If you’re headed for Kissing Bridge or Tamarack, you’re in luck. The Dog Bar, a landmark restaurant on Route 240 in West Falls, is on the way. The Dog Bar has been serving southbound travelers since the early 1800s, first as an inn, which catered to trappers, hunters, loggers, and farmers, and then as a stagecoach transfer station for those en route from Buffalo to Springville. By the early 1900s, it became what might be termed a “supper club,” not only serving dinner, but providing entertainment as well, with an upstairs dance hall, and even movie shows. Admission to the movie and dance hall was ten cents. It was also a Mecca for traveling prize fighters, who competed with locals, to a packed bar.

The property changed hands a number of times until 1941, when Gus and Martha Schenne bought it and turned it into what it is today. Martha worked as a bartender and later a hostess, until she was ninety-two years old. Today her son Ron and his wife Linda are in command, along with their children and grandchildren. And, though there have been some menu changes, their famous Porterhouse Steak and thick, Loin Lamb Chops are still favorites.

Another standout is the 20 Ounce Lobster Tail—positively one of the biggest platefuls you will ever see. If you prefer something a bit less overwhelming, they also have pound and half-pound tails, which can be ordered alone, or surf and turf style, with either a strip steak or a lamb chop.

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The Crystal Dining Room.
For a light meal, the snack menu offers soups, salads, a shrimp cocktail, and burgers. If the idea of a burger sounds too ordinary, I promise you this one is not. Broiled exactly the way I like it, well-done, but still juicy, and wonderfully flavored, it was the first time I’ve ever sent my compliments to the chef about a hamburger.

I later learned this was not unusual. Chef Jacquie Cooper gets accolades for everything from the burgers to the homemade rolls. She began her career with the Schenne’s as a babysitter when she was thirteen years old, and has continued working for the family for forty-five years.

Continuity and history are part of the Dog Bar experience. A photo collage, including family, friends, and employees, is the focal point of the large, attractive tap room. Among the prints is a picture of the VE Day Party held at the Dog Bar on July 20, 1945.
Beyond the bar are four dining rooms, each named for the surrounding hamlets—Griffins Mills, Loveland, Jewettville, and West Falls. The inviting décor is rural-America, with lots of wood, wainscoted walls, and a collection of antiques and curios from the past.

The Dog Bar
Route 240
West Falls
652-5550
Open Wed.-Sun. from 4:00 p.m.

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The exterior of the Dog Bar.
Dog Bar Lobster Tail
Use Cold Water Australian Tails (also called Spiny Lobster) Put frozen tails in tepid water for 10-15 minutes to soften.

With a French knife, split completely, down the back, being careful not to crack the belly of the shell. Once opened, put back in water for an additional 5 minutes.

Carefully remove flesh from shell, without tearing the flesh. Turn shell inside out, and shape it fan-style. Place the flesh atop the shell, tucking it into the fan.

Brush flesh lightly with olive oil. Sprinkle lightly with non-iodized salt and a tiny bit of Hungarian paprika.

Bake at 500 for 15-20 minutes, then pop under broiler for about 2 minutes until lightly browned.

Serve with drawn butter.


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The interior of the Dog Bar.
Tips Up Café
Holiday Valley, or as the locals refer to it, “The Aspen of the East,” not only has great skiing, it has some very enjoyable apres’ ski places. A number of restaurants and bars are clustered in the bustling town of Ellicottville, near the base of the lifts. Crowded, casual, and ready to serve a hot meal and lots of camaraderie to warm a weary skier, Tips Up offers typical ski-country dining.

Owners Ken and Judy Roush have put together a menu of hearty favorites, as well as some interesting specialties. One that is sure to peak your interest is Orange Whiskey Chicken, a boneless breast, marinated in teriyaki, charcoal broiled, and topped with a bourbon flavored orange sauce. Another popular entrée is Baked Stuffed Shrimp. Large shrimp are stuffed with finely chopped garlic, scallions, Romano cheese, and Italian herbs.

Other Italian dishes include manicotti, spaghetti (with meatballs or sausage), and various pizzas. As an alternative to pizza, or along with your meal, try Ken’s Mediterranean Bread, which is garlic bread topped with mozzarella cheese and sliced tomatoes.

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Dog Bar lobster tail served surf n’ turf style.
“Seafood is very popular,” notes Ken, who serves as head chef. “So we usually feature specials, such as grilled tuna, or seafood marinara, which includes mussels, scallops, clams, and shrimp, served over linguine.” A real crowd-pleaser is Ken’s Louisiana Clam Roast, a feast for four, with Little Neck clams, Andouille sausage, and pasta.

For lighter fare, or a snack at the bar, there are appetizers, soups, and hot sandwiches, including an open steak sandwich, served on a toasted garlic roll, and topped with a green-peppercorn/mushroom sauce.

Specials boards, in the dinning room, as well as the bar, list not only dinner and sandwich specials, but the featured wines and drinks.

The desserts are equally tempting. Cheesecake, Mudd Pie, and the not-to-be-overlooked Hot Fudge Brownie are all homemade. The brownie, which is definitely big enough for sharing, is topped with vanilla ice-cream, hot fudge, and whipped cream.

To go along with it, check out the International Coffee specials. A winner here is Glacier Coffee, flavored with Kahlua, Amaretto, and Grand Marnier.

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The Tips Up Café.
Tips Up Café
32 Washington St.
Ellicottville
699-2136
Open daily 4:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.

Louisiana Clam Roast
Sauté one large onion, chopped, and 1 tbls chopped garlic in 3 tbls olive oil. Add 8 ounces sliced Andouille sausage and 40 little neck clams.

Add 1/2 cup dry white wine and 2 cups marinara sauce. Cover and cook until clams open. Toss with 1 pound cooked linguine.

Serves four.

Ann Blask is a freelance writer and partner of Visions Travel, Orchard Park.


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