Location location
By Bernard Ledermann
 |
Ever notice that persons from Yonkers, Trenton, or Altoona habitually categorize Western New Yorkers as “up-staters?” To be classified in such an unschooled manner shifts me into a pedantic gear and inevitably leads to a harr-umphing discourse on geography.
For the misinformed, “upstate” is Bolton Landing on Lake George, or it’s a ninety-minute bus ride from Haverstraw to Monticello on the Shortline, or it’s that neighborhood where Seinfeld’s Newman and Kramer unloaded a feisty dog-napped Terrier. None of this is remotely near Erie/Buffalo or the surrounding-nine county area.
My analysis of the geography has New York’s western quarter beginning at the left bank of the Genesee River and extending to the town of State Line at the Pennsylvania pan handle. Our extreme north is defined by Lake Ontario, stretching west to Youngstown. The northwest and west sides are also described by scenic aqueous views—the Niagara River and Lake Erie.
Of our state’s more than 47,000 square miles, our fruitful western section comprises about twenty-six per cent of the total land mass. Within the boundaries outlined is contained a fullness of natural, cultural, and sensory experiences that are difficult to locate in any of the fifty-two counties outside the region.
My first encounter with New York’s western quarter occurred over thirty years ago. On an early summer day that saw skies above and Lake Erie below a Voronets blue, this spirited bachelor entered the state near the village of Ripley. It was a rare, spotless day dominated by one of those rare Canadian fronts which often slump down from Ontario around the Fourth of July. Brilliant sun, sky, and good air in attendance, plus an endless lake view—what a dramatic introduction to a land that would shortly provide both employment and a sinecure. No doubt, that day I was the proverbial iron filing near a powerful magnet.
About twenty miles into my Chautauqua discoveries, a highway sign near Westfield beckoned me to a small winery where I had an inaugural sampling of New York-grown and -produced wines. This experience anteceded my Age of Wine Geekdom by at least a decade, so there was no scribbling on note cards in wine gibber—later stored in shoe boxes—about what had been tasted. My tasting recall of that day is sketchy. Several wines were tried, whites mostly, with a rosé thrown in, which were fruity (in later argot, “foxy”), off-dry, and altogether agreeable. Later, I remember descending into a nitrogenously-soaked half-hour nap at roadside near Fredonia.
It wasn’t until years later that I discovered that our demarcated land contains an embarras de richesses in tasteful food and drink. Just browse the “Dining Guide” of this publication and discover how diverse are the ways to arouse the gourmand in you. Most restaurants in the region admit to multi-faceted menus and discriminating wine choices.
For the individual wine lover, the dedicated collector, or for that person who seeks a unique bottle to punctuate a singular occasion, there is a bonanza of rare and aged wines stowed away at several retail outlets in the region. Between Rochester and the Queen City, we daresay you’ll uncover more venerable Bordeaux, Burgundy, and vintage Ports than anywhere in the state—or several states, for that matter. Within retail circles it is no secret that collectors from the hinterlands of Texas and southern California regularly “shop” our retailers for those scarce bottles, priced far lower than Madison Avenue rates.
On the production side, any bibber who’s been around a vintage or two is aware that an increasing group of wineries in Western New York has been attempting to craft drier, more “wine-like” offerings—products more compatible with and more logical for a wide variety of foods.
During the 1980s, Woodbury Vineyards near Dunkirk and tiny Schloss Doepken close to Ripley began to market estate-produced vinifera-based wines which had true European character. These well-made products soon found support among eager customers. Today, Woodbury’s consistent, high-quality performances place it among the state’s premium wineries. Look for their judiciously-priced Chardonnays, or my favorites, their bright crowd-pleasing sparkling wines.
Also look for the vinifera releases of Cambria Winery (not associated with anything Californian). It’s new, nearby (outside Lewiston), and practically operates in the misty veil of the Falls. Their Chardonnay and Riesling will surely please, and a shimmering rosé called “Boxer’s Blush”—if not sold out—was a Governor’s Cup winner last summer. There’s no doubt western New York wineries are en route to better times, with better wines always emerging.
Inspiring Indulgences
Was there ever a job this outrageous: to sit down in warm surroundings for a companionable night of dining out while evaluating the wine list of a top-flight Buffalo area restaurant? Don’t pinch me. Several wine lists have been pondered and compared, and some intriguing bottles tasted. Four restaurants show well in values, diversity, and availability of scarce items.
In the heart of downtown, City Grill is the county’s second dining spot to receive special acclaim from Wine Spectator magazine. The Grill’s exhaustive “New World” (i.e., non-European) section of choices is manifestly important and attention-grabbing. Although there’s a decided tilt toward U.S. West Coast wines (by almost 55%), there is so much pleasing variety and admirable pricing that no one will be disgruntled; and the presence of fourteen New York State wines will always draw hosannas from this chauvinist. Under white and “sparkling” categories, we find the Brancott (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc, the Chateau Frank ‘Célebré’, the Monteviña (CA) Pinot Grigio, the Ponzi (Oregon) ‘Arneis’ blend, and the 2000 Hermann Wiemer (Finger Lakes) Riesling to be solid values. Under reds, consider the Argyle (Oregon) Pinot Noir, Buffalo Ridge (CA) Syrah, Clos du Val (CA) Zinfandel, Pellegrini (Long Island) Merlot, or the Terra d’oro (CA) Barbera.
Mother’s Restaurant at 33 Virginia Place has intimate dining and a short but shrewdly-compiled wine list. It’s quite a value-laden nugget of bona fides. There are also helpful descriptive and informational notes throughout, along with an occasional judgment from Robert Parker or Wine Spectator. Especially gratifying are the European red offerings—ten each from France and Italy—several under $20. Depending on your menu choices, you would enjoy the fine 1997 (while it lasts!) ‘Il Sogno’ Chianti by di Pinatti, Masi’s 1998 erta E. China blend, or the ‘97 Volpi Barbera. For Francophiles, the Villa Bel Air, Le Croix Cannon, Chateau Gaillard, and a thumping good Burgundy value—M. Pont’s Prémiere Cru old vines Beaune (under $35!)—will inspire morning-after water cooler talk. Under whites, we’ve always been fans of the Au Bon Climat (CA) Pinot Blanc, the Qupé (CA) ’Bien Nacido blanc, and the King Estate (Oregon) Pinot Gris.
Rue Franklin at—where else?-—341 Rue Franklin is Buffalo’s stop for authentic Gaulist Gourmet. You’d expect a wine list with a heavy French accent, and so it is: over seventy per cent is Francais, but there are good selections in domestic white and red also—many priced for an affordable evening. Rue is justifiably proud of the wine producers it carries, with stellar wineries appearing in all categories. Under whites, the ‘99 Fourchaume Prémier Cru Chablis is first-rate, and the Latour St. Veran better than most Pouilly Fuissés. We’ve never encountered an indifferent bottle of Chateau Sancerre’s Sancerre and the 2000 vintage (under $30!) keeps that skein alive. A rip-tide of amazing Sauvignon Blanc flavors across the palate. From the U.S., the ‘99 Souverain (CA) Sauvignon Blanc remains under-rated, but, oh, what pleasure.
There’s no reason to rue the reds at Rue, not with the choice of a limited Bandol by Pibarnon, de la Chaize Brouilly, or Mongeard-Mugneret’s Fixin (always an under-appreciated Burgundy) on hand. Domestically, you can’t fail with Rodney Strong (CA) Old Vines Zinfandel.
On the exterior, the Hourglass at 981 Kenmore appears to have a clean solidity that’s right out of the Bauhaus era. Inside, the food and wine listings are just as solid. Owner/host Terry Bachakas has long been known as his own strolling wine list, who will move from table to table offering just the right guidance on food-wine pairings. With a wine cellar of over 13,000 bottles to back him up (although the stash has been winnowed for the sake of a manageable list), you can take Terry’s advice with total assurance. (And he’ll safeguard your budget, too.) At one time, the list had a pronounced French incliné, but in the last eight years has become nicely diversified with the inclusion of more California products. Bachakas has presided over this family-owned business for thirty-five years and during that time has become one of the city’s most wine-savvy restaurateurs. After a dinner with Terry, providing sobriety holds, try a tot of the world’s finest Cognac (one writer’s opinion), Martell Cordon Bleu. The Hourglass offers a one-and-a-half ounce snifter pour for only $12.00.
Celebrating New York
Despite a recent winning streak of successful vintages, outsiders still consider our climate too harsh to support a fine wine industry. Well, folks, just taste the impressive results of our 1999 and 2000 vintages before starting to spout Weather Channelese. Among some of the attention-grabbing items with New York origins are two from the previously-mentioned WOODBURY VINEYARDS. Successful fruit growing—both orchard and vineyard—seems deeply embedded in the DNA of this Chautauqua family.
What has issued from the cellar door is some remarkable effort. Two excellent recent achievements are: 1). the 2000 DRY RIESLING ($10)—aromatically, it purrs of fruit and some subtle mineral, and the flavors refuse to be anything but citrussy and complex; still a little tight, so you might cellar it until mid-2004; and 2). the 1999 CHARDONNAY ($11)—has a certain suavity no doubt imparted by a short stay in French oak; regardless, retains a lovely crispness along with some spicy, green apple aromas; can imagine its working well with everything from smoked salmon to Cornish hens—with lots of seafood in between.
Another esteemed Chautauqua winery of long-standing (since 1961) is the Johnson Estate operation, near Westfield. Their leading seller across an entire generation has been a proprietary label, “LIEBESTRÖPFCHEN” ($7.29). Based upon the highly aromatic hybrid grape Delaware, this sensibly sweet, honeyed, and almost nectarish wine has but a subtle foxiness which balances nicely against a discreet acid spine. At first taste, I swore my palate was being caressed by a minor Sauternes-style wine—and without a hint of late-harvesting, noble rot, or any of the other terms.
From the Finger Lakes, look for the 2000 DR. KONSTANTIN FRANK RKATSITELI ($13)—Huh? Come again. (That’s, loosely, Rit-cats-uh-TELL-ie.) This is only the fourth most widely-planted white wine grape in the world and probably one of the most venerable varieties. Noah could have very well planted this vine when he established his post-diluvial vineyards in the Mt. Ararat area. It is a grape most widely planted in eastern Europe and the Orient, though a rare pocket thrives on the Frank estate near Keuka Lake. That figures, because the pioneering Dr. Frank had his successes with this winter-hardy vine in the Ukraine’s hostile climate. For us fortunate consumers it means a dry, high quality wine—if limited—of great breed and structure that will have you reaching for the wok and your Asian spices in preparation for a stir-fry.
Just down the road from the Franks on Keuka’s west side, HERON HILL continues to market lovely wines at fair prices. Their 2000 ‘ECLIPSE’ red blend ($18) easily, ahem, eclipses any of their previous attempts with this proprietary blend. When introduced a few years ago, this wine was, to me, a bit of a shaggy dog; however, winemaker Dana Keeler has a handle on it now and the 2000 marks a fresh start for this label. Stylistically Bordeaux-like, it combines Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. It shows shimmering black fruit content, amazingly balanced flavors, and a texture which will only become silkier with another year or two in the bottle. Enjoy with roast duck, lamb, or on its own.
Before it’s gone, pick up a bottle of PREJEAN WINERY’S 1999 estate RIESLING, ($10). For my money, the four best U.S. Riesling producers are found within a twelve-mile radius which encompasses Keuka and Seneca lakes, and the Prejean family winery is one of them. Their ‘99er exhibits beautiful balance and clarity.
With the release of his 1999 FOX RUN GEWÜRTZTRAMINER ($19), Scott Osborne is the evident leader in production of this spicy varietal. It is certainly not your standard issue Gewürtztraminer (Ge-VERTS-tram-ME-ner). Medium gold with classic Alsace “lychee” and some fleeting carnation on the nose; it shows good weight on the palate, and echoes at length with spicy, almost quince-y flavors on the finish.
A long-time resident of western New York, Bernie Ledermann is “almost” retired in Raleigh, NC, where his involvement in wine tasting, retailing, and education is driven by pure zealotry.
SUBSCRIBE NOW
Back to the Table of Contents
Back to Top