Take it outside By Bernard Ledermann When the air acquires a certain ardent heat, many families find their life-styles taking shape on the anvil of summer. This means more time outdoors—including mealtimes—where a picnic or grilling event is liable to combust quicker than a dry coppice in a fit of lightning. Personally, I’ll take even a moiety of summer in lieu of ten winters with their endless rounds of puréed squash and pumpkin pies. No, I dare not, should not, wear a Speedo, cannot take long exposures to the sun, and find touring in a convertible beyond loathsome. Instead, you’re likely to find me sitting about, never far from an over-sized umbrella, dreaming of Kew in lilac time—or just as likely contemplating the latest wine releases that might be suitable for adventures under the sky. Just because summer’s here doesn’t mean “wine research” should take a vacation. Summer finds everyone of my acquaintance more sanguine, more spontaneous, and the domestic nutritionists among us more creative, especially given the limitless pool of cooking ingredients Nature puts in our way. Menus need not be elaborate; we advise against them. Was there ever a better light supper at the end of a long, leisurely day than the mingling of a simple salad of vine-ripe tomatoes, lightly dressed, with a sprinkling of Feta cheese and chopped walnuts; a follow-up of grilled cumin shrimp; and lastly, a cooling, calming lemon tart? Flush it away with a citrusy Pinot Grigio from a dewy-cold glass, and you’ll be forever known as the Wizard of Ahhhs. Or consider the strategy of our resourceful friends, Ed and Marti. Before they head out to see their favorite blues bands perform under the stars, they hire a baby-sitter (this means no chips, cookies, and Kool-aid in the hamper); next, Ed, who’s of Greek heritage, collects the best Ionian picnic this side of Corfu. Imagine: marinated artichokes and peppers, rice-stuffed vine leaves, spinach and cheese pies, and clusters of fresh white grapes to conclude. Add a couple bottles of Santorini blanc and teach me to dance, Zorba. (More about the volcanically-raised wine from Greece shortly.) Thirty years ago, wine/food maven Barbara Ensrud, one of America’s most credible writers in her field, penned a book, Wine with Food, in which she masterly developed an image of wine as part of the good life—particularly summer life. My favorite strategy floated by Ensrud—it’s most recommendable—is the summer wine cellar. Simply augment your purchases by stocking a variety of lighter, gentler, less complex wines, perhaps sixty-five per cent white—reds, as we’ll note, also have a place—which can be briskly chilled in a short time and brought out to meet any number of warm weather happenings. Dog Day Wines: Whites For those whose days are fraught with decision-making overload, we propose a few relief-giving wines. Note the recent vintage dates; youth in whites is important if you want the maximum effect of a fresh, crisp wine. If you plan to store any of these whites over a period of weeks, remember constant temperature is vital—a steady seventy degrees is always preferred. 2000 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay CALIFORNIA $12 This could be the finest vintage ever for this storied Sonoma County producer. Oak is nuanced, not domineering, and provides a nice background which enhances the presence of a rich, orchard fruit feeling. Ideal for casual “grazing parties” or informal receptions. 2000 Salmon Run Riesling NEW YORK $9 This wine does a lot more than assure a steady flow of funds for the Dr. Konstantin Frank winery. Born of a good vintage, this medal-winner yields peppy apple and pear fruit flavors and has an attractive off-dry finish. 2000 Boutari Santorini GREECE $13 This jewel of the Cycladean archipelago is a favorite tourist haunt and home of a luscious, eponymously-named white wine. A top-quality vinifera vine, Asyrtiko (a dab of wine from Athíre vines is blended in) gives the wine suprisingly good acid-fruit balance. Think of it as a wine with kaolin clay and ash on its sandals, and lemons with a sprig of honeysuckle in its hands. Outrageously good with cold eggplant dishes or chilled Soúpa Avgolémono. 2001 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc NEW ZEALAND $10 The Allan Scott brand of excellent Sauvignon Blanc is lately making a stir on the American market. This 2001 release stands proudly on its own merits: vegetal aromas, which can be annoying, are muted; invigorating, and awash with flavors of gooseberry and melon on the palate; both delicacy and intensity—often a Scott feature—simply amaze; and say good-bye with a lengthy, dry finish. Overall, supple, harmonious, exciting. This wine screams for a clam bake, seafood salads, or mild cheeses. Clearly, a Bernie’s Best Buy. The Light Chill: Reds Lighter style reds and rosés are always useful since so much summer fare consists of smoky grilled foods and barbecue. We’ll note wines that hit their stride when refrigerator-cooled for thirty minutes or set in an ice bucket for fifteen. 2000 Erath Pinot Noir OREGON $13 We said it before and it bears repeating: this is solid value in a domestic Pinot. Its flavors sing of black cherry and raspberry with a note of spice on a smooth finish. Harmonizes well with pork or salmon off the coals. 2000 Campo de Borgia ‘Borsao’ SPAIN $7 Spanish wines are becoming legitimately popular, and this one merits the applause of several important critics. It drinks like a wine of triple the price and gives fine continuity of flavor, from entry through end-taste. Loads of succulent mulberry fruit and a refined, many-faceted finish. Buy a case for the grilling season. 2000 Vega Sindoa Rosé SPAIN $7 Keep it in Iberia for a dry, crisp, and tasty rosado. Un-oaked, with nuances of strawberry and faded rose petal. Summarize it “refreshing.” Serve with cheese, pork chops or fresh tomato salads. Never shrink to drink pink. 2001 Delicato Shiraz CALIFORNIA $7 One of few California producers who uses the Persian spelling for ‘Syrah.’ This is a light and eminently drinkable Shiraz. Shows soft tannins and abounds in blackberry flavors and peppery spice. Don’t Duck Punches Our steadfast favorite is that classic bathing-suit Bebida from Spain, Sangria. Begin construction with a bottle of full-bodied red, perhaps from Spain’s Toro or La Mancha regions; add orange juice and some orange liqueur, orange and lemon slices, apple or peach slices, and a scant cup of sparkling water. Ice down and sip. Suddenly the world becomes softer, cooler, and infinitely forgiving. You’ll never go wrong with this summer catechism: Stay cool, enjoy wine. Bernie Ledermann has twenty-five years of experience in wine retailing and educating. He is a frequent contributor of wine reviews on the Web. Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top