A Finger Lakes Update By Mark Criden Seventy-two miles. Twelve wineries. Ninety-one wines. Six hours. Kids, don’t try this at home. The Finger Lakes have long been a favorite destination for Western New Yorkers, given the region’s stunning beauty and the fun of trick or treating at wineries. But Finger Lakes wines were rarely considered first rate, able to stand shoulder to shoulder with the best from California, Australia, or Europe. A question posed a year ago on the Wine Therapy (I swear this is the truth) Bulletin Board—“Have you ever had a great wine from the Finger Lakes?”—drew tentative, apologetic responses (“Not exactly great, but...”) On the other hand, several national magazines have recently hung impressive scores on various Central New York bottles. It makes sense that as producers gained from decades of experience and their vineyards matured, the wines should improve dramatically. To check on this progress, I made the sacrifice of spending a beautiful summer afternoon sniffing, swirling and, alas, spitting in many of the best wineries hugging the scenic Seneca Lake shoreline. A tough gig, I know, but someone has to do it. Finger Lakes winemakers, of course, face the same three variables as producers everywhere: the conditions of the vineyard (soil composition, exposition, drainage, etc.), the quality of the vintage (hot or cold? dry or wet? hail or locusts?), and their skill and commitment. The climate is somewhat milder than in Western New York, but we’re not talking the Cote D’Azur here, folks. Harsh winters drove the region’s pioneers first to tough native grapes—like Niagara, Catawba and Vignoles—and then to hardier Northern European white varieties like Riesling. In general, those Rieslings—whether dry, semi-dry, or sweet —still show the best overall, offering a crisp, lime-inflected quality that makes them tremendously food-friendly and excellent values. But not far behind are several fine examples of Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer, leaner and more penetrating than their California or Australia fruit-bomb cousins. The big question is whether the area can dazzle with red wines. Unless global warming picks up dramatically, you won’t see drinkable Chateauneuf du Pape or Chianti knock-offs from the Finger Lakes anytime soon, but many talented winemakers believe the future lies in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. A couple of years ago, I rode the circuit tasting one mean, skinny Finger Lakes red after another, many marred by short, clipped finishes, as if each wine had taken a step off a cliff. This time, I had the pleasure of tasting numerous credible reds, and even some that were positively delightful. Perhaps they aren’t world-class yet. But they’re getting there. Here are notes on ten recommended wineries to visit from Geneva south to Watkins Glen and then back up the east side of the lake. Two celebrated wineries—Herman J. Wiemer and Lamoreaux Landing—provided largely uninspiring tastings this time out but are well worth your visit in the future. I missed other well-known locations—especially Glenora and Wagner—but you shouldn’t, especially if time is on your side. I tasted largely from the 2000, 2001, and 2002 vintages, and the difference was usually stark. The 2000s show the result of a cold, wet summer, and are largely, though not entirely, wines with slight, practically “virtual” flavors and finishes. The 2001s, from a much warmer, drier vintage, are far more interesting and complete, and the 2002 whites I tasted were also very promising. Though I found something worth drinking at almost every winery I visited, wines listed as “also tasted” provided less compelling experiences. First stop south of Geneva was Fox Run Vineyards, where President Scott Osborn introduced me to his delicious 2002 Riesling, a wine positively crammed with apricot & lime flavors, a stupendous bargain at $10. Among the reds, most noteworthy was the ripe, lush 2001 Cabernet Franc ($18). Also tasted: 2001 Chardonnay ($10); 2001 Reserve Chardonnay ($14); 2001 Dry Riesling ($10); 2000 Gewurztraminer ($15); 2001 Pinot Noir ($14); 2001 Reserve Pinot Noir ($20); 2001 Merlot ($18); 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon ($18); NV Port ($20). I tried no reds at the Anthony Road Wine Company (the 2001 Cabernet Franc, was sold out) but tasted a very good selection of whites, including a balanced, golden, floral 2002 Pinot Gris ($13), and an utterly delicious, peachy, limey 2002 Riesling ($11). A 2000 Vignoles Trockenbeeren was sweet all right, but somewhat simple for its $40 per half bottle tag. Also tasted: 2001 Chardonnay ($11); 2001 dry Vignoles ($11); 2002 semi-dry Riesling ($12). Just north of Watkins Glen, I swung into Lakewood Vineyards. Although not necessarily located on the best patch of dirt, Lakewood has turned out some impressive wines, especially the 2001 cabernet sauvignon/cabernet franc blend called Crystallus, long, smoky, raspberry-scented and a deal at $17. I also thoroughly enjoyed both Rieslings, the citrusy 2001 Dry and the 2002 Semi-dry (both $11). Also tasted: 2001 Chardonnay Barrel Fermented ($13); 2000 Cabernet Franc ($15); 2000 Pinot Noir ($15). As you swing north from Watkins Glen along the eastern lakeshore, you hit the sweet spot of the Finger Lakes, the highest concentration of fine producers and vineyards perhaps east of the Rocky Mountains. First up was Atwater Estate Vineyards, where Vineyard Manager Jack McCormack gave me my first glimpse of the raw potential of the southeastern shoreline. Two reds especially stood out: a 2001 Pinot Noir ($20), all black raspberries and cherries, and a 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) whose deep color, long silky finish and surprising richness produced the first WOW of the day. A 2000 Meritage ($18) was also delicious, as were the 2001 Gewurztraminer ($18) and 2001 Dry Riesling ($13). At Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards, Mike Sutterby, the affable winemaker, proudly showed me his vineyards. It was hard not to be impressed by Hazlitt’s commitment to serious vineyard techniques. And the proof was where it belonged—in the bottle. A vibrant 2001 Gewurztraminer ($15) was chock-full of lychee, tropical, and citrus fruit flavors and a barrel sample of their 2002 Riesling had electrifying potential. The most exciting wine I tried was a sample of their unreleased 2001 Cabernet Franc, a deep, rich, beautifully extracted and proportioned wine with excellent promise. For $19, it will be a great buy. Also tasted: 2001 Schooner Red ($9); 2001 Chardonnay ($14); 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon ($15); 2001 Pinot Gris ($15); 2001 Riesling ($10). I only wish I was as impressed at Chateau Lafayette Reneau. Maybe it’s the winery’s pushy style; it was hard for the wines to live up to the breathless hyperbole of the tasting sheet. I must admit, though, that I did enjoy their silky 2001 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, lemon meringue pie in a bottle ($13) and the crisp, melony 2002 Dry Riesling ($12). I tasted a very good range of wines, though, at Red Newt Cellars, demonstrating the formidable talents of partner and winemaker David Whiting. Tops was the delicious 2001 Viridescens, a cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot blend that was ripe, deep, and very convincing, though pricey at $39. I also tasted a pair of very good whites, the crisp, limey 2002 Riesling ($12.50) and a ripe, spicy 2001 Gewurztraminer Reserve ($24.50) One of the visits I was most looking forward to was Richard Figiel’s Silver Thread Vineyards, a Finger Lakes standard bearer for low-tech artisan wines, concentrating on organic practices. Four very good whites can be recommended, including the lemony, lingering 2000 Chardonnay ($12.50); the even longer, more complex 1999 Chardonnay Reserve ($18.50); the spicy, rosy 2001 Gewurztraminer ($15); and the lively 2002 Riesling ($12.50). Standing Stone Vineyards, which has just finished its tenth harvest under owners Marti & Tom Macinski, has racked up serious points lately from the Wine Spectator. I’m not surprised. Standing Stone impressed me as perhaps the most serious winery in the Finger Lakes. Take their reds from 2000, a notoriously difficult vintage. The Pinot Noir is very good, deeply colored, with a surprisingly long finish, one to watch as the young vines mature ($19). The Cabernet Franc, just crammed with cranberry and raspberry yumminess, reminded me of delicious Chinon from the Loire Valley ($16). The Pinnacle, a cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot blend, was vibrant and serious ($20), just edging out the more structured Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($25). I honestly can’t wait to taste the 01s, a stronger vintage. I ended my visit at Shalestone Vineyards, owned by Rob and Kate Thomas, the newest “New Age” winemakers I met. With laid back intensity (the web site states the winery’s philosophy: “tune into nature, go with the natural ebb and flow of life”), the self-taught Rob led me through a serious, complete set of red wines. The 2001 Merlot is rich, serious, almost edgy. Is this really Merlot? ($17). The 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon displays surprising depth and concentration for the year ($18). My favorite wine of the whole day, and the best red wine I’ve ever tasted from the Finger Lakes. however was Shalestone’s 2001 Cabernet Franc, a medium bodied, velvety, dark purple, delicious bottle. Holy Smokes! A real red wine. ($16.) The wines of Seneca Lake have world-class status in their sights. A few years from now, they should have fully arrived. Mark Criden, the former chair of the Buffalo Branch of the International Wine & Food Society, frequently reviews wine and otherwise haunts Internet wine boards. He is also a private wine cellar consultant. Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top