FOODIES: A PASSAGE TO INDIA
By Vicki G. Marshall & Margaret M. Toohey
Taking no food enterprise lightly, the Foodies made sure we were well-versed in the lore of East Indian cuisine and had a native-born support staff in tow before venturing out on our first exploration of Indian cuisine in Western New York.
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Illustration by Jean-Pierre Thimot.
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India is a vast country possessing many more diverse regions than the entire continent of Europe, marked by a long history of invasions, changing trading patterns, and several distinct religious practices. The cuisine of India reflects this complex heritage. The availability and relative abundance of foodstuffs has shaped the diet and cooking techniques of the various regions, leading to some dramatically different uses of the same basic ingredients from region to region. The unifying factor in this diversity is the artful blending of herbs and spices, which finds its purest expression in the wonderful curry dishes at the heart of Indian cuisine.
And just what is this stuff called “curry” we’ve been eating all these years? Not an exclusive creation of the Indian subcontinent, we’re afraid. Colonial rulers have never been known for their linguistic accuracy and no one knows for sure where the British got this one. Kari is a South Indian word for sauce and “tarkari” is a North Indian dish—which may or may not be relevant. Clearly the sahibs and memsahibs fell in love with the flavors of India. When they returned to the homeland, they had their cooks grind up a mix of spices to sprinkle on the staid British staples. The world now knows this as “curry powder” and whatever is cooked with it as “curry.” More precisely, a curry is a dish made with a spicy sauce that is served with rice or bread. The central ingredient in the dish is meat, fowl, fish, or vegetables.
As we were approaching our destination, we got a call from Lyn who was parked in front of the restaurant and informed us it was closed on Mondays. It was then that Naresh remembered telling the owner that he worked too hard and should try to close one day a week. Apparently he listened.
Unrattled by this all-too-typical Foodie phenomenon, we began a long discussion about our Plan B. After much talking we agreed on Tandoori’s at 7740 Transit Road (632-1112). Naresh had not been there in a long time and was somewhat reluctant, but in hindsight it was an excellent choice.
We opted for an Indian smorgasbord. (The term may not be “cc”—culinarily correct—but you get the idea.) Naresh was very helpful as we each read the menu, asked questions, and then picked out something that appealed to us. In ordering, he also added a few items that he felt were critical to our experience. As a vegetarian, Achla was able to help us decide which meatless dishes to choose. We all agreed to ask for “mild” spice since none of us were feeling very adventurous. We started off with three appetizers: Sabzi Pakora, an assortment of spinach leaves and vegetables delicately spiced, dipped in chickpea batter and fried; Chin Chin Chow, chicken pieces marinated and cooked in rare Indian and Asian spices; and Gosht Samosas, spiced minced lamb stuffed in a flour shell and fried. Accompanied by raita (fresh yogurt with spices and cucumber), pappadums (thin crisp fried lentil tortillas), naan makhani (buttered unleavened soft flour bread baked in a tandoor), and puri (whole wheat deep-fried, puffed bread) all the flavors were bright, fresh, and very appealing.
This was followed by some of the best lentils we had ever tasted, simmered overnight with onions, garlic, ginger, and herbs to create a dish called Dal Makhani. Some of us were ready to become vegetarians on the spot after sampling such wonderfully seasoned dishes as Paneer Pala (spinach cooked in Indian spices with potatoes) and Tawa Nazakat (a spread of potatoes, eggplant, okra, and onions cooked on a skillet with herbs and spices).
We moved on to Jhinga Tandoori Masala, jumbo shrimp marinated in spices that gave the dish a dramatic reddish tint, then barbecued and simmered in a rich curry sauce; Murg Maharaja, roasted chicken cooked in onions, poppy seeds, cashew nuts, and a blend of spices; and Roghan Josh, boneless lamb cooked in spices, yogurt, and tomatoes. Each dish had such a unique taste that we caught ourselves oohing and aahing every few moments, employing the universal language of Foodies everywhere to express how truly delicious we found the meal.
A few rounds of Taj Mahal beer accompanying our sumptuous meal made the perfect compliment to the myriad variety of flavors and spices. To end the evening, Naresh selected two desserts for us to try: Ras Malai, homemade cheese balls in lightly sweetened milk cream, topped with pistachios, and mango ice cream, the house specialty made from Indian mangoes (Alphonso). Naresh was very pleased with the meal and rated it as excellent.
This wonderful evening served two purposes for The Foodies. First, it gave us a superb tour of this rich, appetizing, aromatic, sweet, spicy, and very satisfying cuisine. Second, the adventure made us want to try other local establishments. So, a few weeks later—not on a Monday—we ended up at A Taste of India (3093 Sheridan Dr., 837-0460).
This time our entourage consisted of Margy, Vicki, and Margaret Rodgers, and we enjoyed another excellent meal. We brought with us the menu from our first experience and decided to try one or two of the same dishes again for comparison along with some new ones. We started off with a mixed platter of appetizers which included delicious spiced chicken fritters (Chicken Pakora), potato pancakes dipped in chickpea batter and deep fried (Alu Tikki) and samosas stuffed with ground beef and peas, accompanied by raita (yogurt) and two breads, puri and garlic naan. For the main courses we selected Vegetable Biryani, rice prepared with vegetables, peas, cashews and raisins; Chicken Tikka, boneless and skinless chicken marinated in yogurt and mild spices and cooked on a skewer, and Dal, lentils seasoned with ginger, garlic and spices. In all fairness we agreed that we should probably have ordered the dishes “medium” this time, as the “mild” at A Taste of India was much milder than Tandoori’s and we would have enjoyed a little more intensity.
The restaurant was quite busy, with many of the diners on hand for a buffet offered only on Tuesdays. At $10.95 per person, it’s a great way to begin your own exploration of the subcontinent.
A Greek detour
Before we could make arrangements for yet another Indian dinner, Margy read about a new restaurant in Depew called The Greek (706-0900). “The Greek” is owned and operated by an Israeli and offers authentic Greek and Mediterranean food. It was worth the trip to 5319 Transit Road all the way from Lewiston. The owner—who was also our waiter—was helpful, pleasant, and absolutely charming. The food was some of the best we had ever had. Aside from the delicious soups and souvlaki we had a borakus—a puff pastry pie stuffed with specially seasoned ground beef served with outstanding tzatziki (yogurt, cucumbers, and garlic) and a hard-boiled egg—that practically melted in our mouths. But the best was yet to come. Margy had the rice pudding while Vicki opted for a parfait made with whipped halvah (a sweetened sesame paste confection) and honey served on a pool of crème fraiche. Both desserts were absolutely heavenly.
Vicki G. Marshall is a graphic designer. Margaret M. Toohey is CEO and owner of the
Lewiston Insurance Agency.
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