GO OUTSIDE AND PLAY By Barry A. Muskat We often picture the Niagara River as a thundering cannon of a waterway. Waters from four Great Lakes—Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie—flow into one narrow passageway and crash over Niagara Falls en route to Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence Seaway. Unless you’re a daredevil, this is not an ideal spot for recreational boating. But great boating opportunities can be had below the Falls, past the rapids, and into the waters of the Lower Niagara River. Flanked by the gorge, this is the heart of one of the most picturesque scenes in the region. (For those who can’t visualize the location, think of the drive into Canada as you cross the Queenston-Lewiston Bridge and glance at the gorgeous view off to your right. On a clear day, you can see across Lake Ontario to the Toronto skyline.) The gorge offers the perfect spot for the recreational kayaker to explore, experience, and enjoy our incredible summers. Though surely not whitewater, it can be challenging. The excitement of the river is its unpredictability and the fact that it changes with each experience. The conditions vary dependent upon wind speed and direction, the time of day, the traffic of other boaters, the current of the Niagara River, and the spirit of the waves of Lake Ontario. Here the kayaker has the best of all worlds. Launch on the Canadian side from the Niagara-on-the-Lake shore at Queens Royal Park (foot of King Street) or from the American side in Youngstown (Fort Niagara State Park). Depending on your mood and skill level, you can paddle in any direction. If you head upriver (back towards the Queenston Bridge) you’ll be stroking against the current. It can often be choppy. On the Canadian side, you’ll pass the Niagara-on-the-Lake Sailing Club, Navy Hall, and Fort George. Along the American shore, weave among the array of sailboats moored at Youngstown Yacht Club. (You can peak at some prime real estate not visible from roadside on both shores.) Early morning can be tranquil, the river calm and mirror-like. As the day progresses, watch out for the Whirlpool Jet boats, fishing boats, and a variety of power and sail traffic. Be sure to stay alert: you are definitely the very lowest notch on the nautical totem pole. You can paddle as seriously or as far as your energy and ability permit. It’s five or six miles back towards Artpark and there’s a supply of pretty spots to explore along the shoreline. The lush greenery and steep face of the rocky bluffs make it difficult for you to find a place to land, but the tree branches and rock surfaces reflect in the water in patterns of breathtaking color and texture. The bonus of stroking against the current is obvious: when you turn to head for home, that same current helps you fly back to the site where you launched. On your return, continue beyond the parks to the mouth of the river. It can be rough where river meets lake, so unless you’re experienced, stay near either shore. On the American side, you can paddle past the Coast Guard Station and around Fort Niagara, one of the oldest structures on the Great Lakes. During tourist season, you just might see an historical reenactment. My personal favorite spot is on the Canadian side, continuing from the river on out to the lake. You’ll paddle in clear shallow waters over large boulders. Pass the Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Club (the oldest course in Canada) and see the rocky beach. Then be treated to a center orchestra view of the original Fort Mississauga. Completed after the War of 1812, the Fort was built from the rubble brick of the destroyed town. Long-abandoned, it is accessible from land only by a circuitous path through the golf course. But from the water’s edge, you can see behind the berms to the unrestored and authentic core of the Fort’s rounded rectangular drum. Dense and solid, the structure’s only openings are vertical windows, the narrowest of slits. This is an up-close view of history. As an avid sailor who intimately knows these waters but who only started kayaking a few years ago, I still marvel at each outing’s discoveries. Sailing or motorboating is clearly different than experiencing the same journey in a sea kayak. Nestled low to the water, the kayaker becomes a part of the wonder of each wave or wake, each splash of water, each view of fish, birds, and wildlife. Levels of stress melt away into the amazingly clear water. For the paddler, these waters can be serene and secluded or challenging and invigorating. For a great workout, cap some of the area’s best stroking action with sensational views, a dose of history, and a gorge that gets prettier with each season. It’s a surprisingly intimate way to appreciate this magnificent natural resource—which happens to be located in our backyard. Barry A. Muskat is a regular contributor to Spree on architectural issues. He occasionally paddles out to other venues. Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top