Beyond the Fish Fry
By Alan J. Bedenko; Photos by Jim Bush
The Friday fish fry is a way of life in Western New York. It’s great comfort food. But let’s not forget that there are probably as many different ways to prepare fish as there are species.
Passing on the fries and slaw this time around, we tried an exquisite Greek grilled fish at Astoria, the Italian-influenced fresh variety at La Marina, and a wonderfully creative meal at hot Allentown locale Aqua. All three of these world-class restaurants are located within the boundaries of the ever-more-cosmopolitan City of Buffalo.
ASTORIA
We had heard the buzz—that Astoria is a charming Greek restaurant with a pleasant patio in the rear—so we dined there recently, not expecting it to be part of this fishy review. Yet Greeks have been fishing in the Aegean and Adriatic seas forever, so they’re bound to know how to do fish, right? Heck, Greek fishermen even have their own brand of little black cap.
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This family-run restaurant has a cosmopolitan, New York-style ambiance. It’s small, about a dozen tables. The rich, red walls, dim lighting, and jazz playing softly in the background combine to create a romantic setting.
Our server was very quick, friendly, and accommodating. The moment she told us about that evening’s specials, I knew that Astoria was in the running to be included in this review. Almost every special involved grilled fish or seafood, although the permanent menu has a limited fish selection: grilled salmon, Cajun grilled shrimp, and Greek broiled fish.
Astoria needs to add more grilled fish to its regular menu. All of Buffalo should get an opportunity to try it; it’s just that good.
In small villages throughout the Mediterranean, men go fishing in the wee hours, and return home with fresh fish. They gut and clean them, and then grill them with simple seasonings like salt, pepper, whatever herbs might be lying around the house, and a liberal helping of extra-virgin olive oil. The result is simply amazing: fish the way it’s been made for eons.
At Astoria, I was told about a grilled black sea bass special. They only had one left. We ordered it. That fish was enormous, and served whole, head and all. It was grilled and seasoned in the same way men and women in Greece probably do, full of great flavor and texture; it wasn’t just a meal, it was an event. Closing our eyes, it was easy to imagine we were in one of those fishing villages. Simply outstanding.
The fish came with a dinner salad. Astoria makes all its own dressings; the Greek dressing was very good, but the creamy gorgonzola was fantastic. I told our server that they should find a way to bottle it. It was similar to, yet better than, the very best and very freshest blue cheese dressing I had ever had. The fish was served with a generous helping of tender Greek potatoes.
We also tried the Greek dip platter of tsatsiki, a yogurt, garlic, and cucumber dip; melitsanosalata, an eggplant dip; and taramosalata, a caviar dip. Served with grilled pita points, each of the dips was homemade, and each was very fresh and delicious. The cost of the meal was quite reasonable, and well worth it.
The food, service, and ambiance at Astoria are superb and world-class. I hope that Astoria keeps doing grilled fish like the one I tried, and that everyone tries this genuine taste of the Mediterranean way of life.
ASTORIA
423 Elmwood Avenue, Buffalo
884-4711
La MARINA
La Marina is the premier seafood restaurant in Buffalo. As its name suggests, the establishment also features a bona fide fish market.
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La Marina’s décor is a bit stale and industrial, but it’s appropriately lit for a cozy dinner, and quite comfortable. The servers here are very friendly and knowledgeable. Service can be a bit slow when the restaurant is crowded, but it’s worth the wait for La Marina’s freshly prepared, inventive dishes.
Let me get one thing out of the way: La Marina’s fish fry is outstanding. Amazing. Off-the-charts. So far, the best I’ve ever had. I don’t know what their secret is, but there is something delicious and almost addictive in the batter they use. I highly recommend it.
I promised to get beyond fried seafood, but first allow me to praise their fried calamari appetizer. It’s tasty and tender, breaded with Italian style seasonings, and served with marinara sauce. The portion is large enough to share, or even to order as an entrée.
If you happen to go on a Friday, I also urge you to try the phenomenal seafood chowder. To call this a soup is misleading; it’s really a bowl of seafood served with a delightfully savory, creamy base, and it’s absolutely outstanding.
The specialty of the house is a thick bouillabaisse, also chock-full of fresh seafood. The portion and the price are somewhat high, so this is another dish that’s perfect for sharing.
Theorizing that the freshest available fish will be used, I tend to gravitate toward the special. I recently tried a large swordfish steak served with a delightfully sweet-and-savory balsamic glaze. Served with veggies, this was an excellent dish that really enhanced the mild flavor of the grilled fish.
La Marina also lives up to its Italian heritage by offering numerous pasta dishes, all of which include some sort of seafood. The haddock al forno ala mamma is best described as a sort of fish parmigiana. The blending of fresh fish with tomatoes, onions, and cheese is unusual, yet delicious.
La Marina uses the freshest ingredients to offer inventive dishes with an Italian twist. You can’t go wrong with that combination.
LA MARINA
SEAFOOD MARKET AND GRILLE
1503 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo
834-9681
AQUA
Aqua is a brand-new, eclectic little restaurant. The theme here is Pacific Rim/fusion. Think Ming Tsai (right down to the blue ginger), only better.
We’ve been hearing a lot lately about the “creative class,” which is billed as the wave of the future and the key to Buffalo’s salvation. Aqua is the culinary embodiment of that ideal. The newest project from former Coda owner and executive chef, Doug Owens, this restaurant would look right at home in San Francisco. The décor is simple yet elegant: Ikea furnishings for the approximately twelve tables, a deep, rich wood wainscoting, a tin ceiling painted gold, and walls painted a rich aquamarine, with schools of fish stamped throughout. It’s like being in an aquarium. (A large patio more than doubles the dining space during the warm months.)
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We sampled two appetizers; the first was a rich, thick lobster bisque packed with mini noodles and fresh lobster meat. It was absolutely delicious. Aqua features sushi, sashimi, and “dragon rolls,” which are very large, inside-out sushi. Our lobster sushi roll was excellent: thick chunks of lobster, wrapped in sushi rice and a matching, pink-colored tofu wrap.
I ordered the house specialty, grilled red snapper with dried bing cherry and bacon sauce. It was served with sautéed snap peas and a scoop of sushi rice. The fish was moist, flaky, and fresh. The cherry and bacon sauce had a great texture—alternately crunchy and chewy. The inventive savory and sour combination truly enhanced the fresh fish. I added a bit of soy sauce to the sushi rice, and the Asian flavors matched perfectly.
We also tried the vegetarian bento box, which compartmentalized a generous helping of a spicy red curry tofu and tomato mix, a gorgonzola salad, couscous, and cucumber/avocado roll. Everything was super-fresh, beautifully presented, and very, very tasty.
Dinner was very reasonably priced. Everything—the décor, the drinks, the food—is done to please and tease the senses. Aqua is a wonderful little restaurant that deserves all of its popularity. It’s got everything: fresh ingredients, beautiful presentation, and explosive, unusual flavors.
AQUA
206 Allen Street, Buffalo
881-AQUA
Alan Bedenko is an attorney living in Western New York with his family.
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