RECOMMENDED SIDEKICKS

Barbera—the name of both the grape and the wine—is pretty easy to understand. The wine is identified by a village name (Barbera d’Asti, Barbera d’Alba) and occasionally a vineyard name, but as in all things, the producer is of paramount importance. Easily drinkable when released, good examples—whether traditional or aged in French barrels—will age with considerable grace over a five-year horizon. Right now, the uncommonly rich 2003s dominate the marketplace. I’d avoid the weak 2002 but 2000 and 2001s are still good bets.

Great Barbera is almost sinfully easy to find. Expect to spend $10-$25 for the following delicious normale bottlings, most of which come from great Barolo and Barbaresco producers: Giacomo Conterno, Aldo Conterno, Enzo Boglietti, Bruno Giacosa, Bovio, Domenico Clerico, Paolo Scavino, Elio Altare, Vittorio Bera & Figli, La Spinetta, Vietti, Luciano Sandrone, Albino Rocca, Prunotto (Fiulot and Pian Romualdo bottlings), Elvio Cogno, Conterno Fantino, Cortese, Gianfranco Alessandria, Renato Corino, Moccagatta, Mauro Molino, Giorgio Pelissero, Riccardo Seghesio, Codero di Montezemolo, Elio Grasso, Brovia, Mauro Veglio.

The following world-class Barberas will set you back more than $50. While these are usually richer and classier than the above bottlings, whether they go better with tonight’s dinner is strictly up to you. Altare Vigna Larigi, Hastae Quorum, Franco Martinetti Sul Bric and Montruc, Braida di Giacomo Bologna Bigotta, Bricco dell’Uccellone and Ai Suma, Prunotto Costamiole, Coppo Pomorosso and Riserva della Familia, Voerzio ‘Pozzo dell’Annunziata.’

Prices top out at $300 per magnum for Roberto Voerzio’s Barbera Riserva Vigneto Pozzo dell’Annunziata; call me if you’re opening some.

Dolcetto is also both a grape and a wine, but selection is even easier than it is with Barbera because there’s no division between traditionalists and oakaholics.Though advocates insist that Dolcetti can age for up to five years, I’d steer clear of all but the 2003s and 2004s now in the market, which yield numerous sumptuous examples. Although it’s possible to spend up to $40 for these wines, there’s usually little reason to exceed $20.

My Dolcetto hit parade includes Luigi Pira, Bartolo Mascarello, Paolo Scavino, Bovio, Enrico e Marziano Abbona Abbona, Domenico Clerico, Brovia, Fratelli Pecchenino, Giacomo Conterno, Conterno Fantino, Luigi Einaudi, Roberto Voerzio, Elvio Cogno, Claudio Alario, Brovia, Albino Rocca, Bruno Giacosa, Brovia, Marcarini, Vietti, Prunotto, Giuseppe Mascarello, Aldo Conterno, Elio Grasso, Elio Altare, Vietti, Giorgio Pelissero.

Aligoté lovers also ought to stick with recent vintages, but Burgundy as a whole had a fabulous 2002, and these wines are still drinking well if properly stored. 2003 produced fatter, richer wines, and, while not as classic as the older vintage, can yield fine drinking from the right producers.

The gold standard in Aligote is Aubert de Villaine’s Aligote Bouzeron, imported by Kermit Lynch, which should set you back $15-$20. Other fine producers include Arnaud Ente, Pierre Morey, Dureuil-Janthial, Bruno Clavelier, Robert Jayer-Gilles, Coche-Dury, Remi Jobard, Alice et Olivier de Moor, and Domaine D’Auvenay.