Elmwood eateries
By Alan Bedenko; photos by Jim Bush
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As far as dining goes, Elmwood spans the globe. On one two-mile stretch, you can eat Indian, Chinese, pub grub, contemporary American, specialty sandwiches, Greek (lots of Greek), and enjoy a beverage or two along the way. It’s the year-round version of the Taste of Buffalo.
Join me as we take a mini-tour of Elmwood’s worldly offerings
FALAFEL BAR
Readers with strong memories will recall a review in a 2004 issue of Spree noting the exceptional food at a nondescript restaurant called “The Greek” in a small plaza on Transit Road in Depew. I used to frequent that restaurant, and my disappointment at its closing was tempered by the fact that Oded, the owner, had opened the Falafel Bar in the former location of Edrito’s on the Elmwood Strip.
The location is teeny-weeny. Lilliputian.
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Everything at the Falafel Bar is packed with flavor, and awaits your superlatives.
The falafel is the best I’ve ever eaten anywhere. Crispy brown on the outside, and tinged with green from the spicy mixture on the tender inside, it will leave a lasting—and positive—impression. Pair that fried chickpea mush with the best homemade hummus available in town, and you’re on to something. In fact, regardless of what you order as your main course, start with an order of hummus and pita points.
Wraps made with the freshest veggie and meat ingredients are so packed with Mediterranean flavor that just thinking about them makes my mouth water. Try the Lebaneh Wrap, made with falafel, fried eggplant, lebaneh (a sour yogurt and citrus dip), and a middle eastern seasoning called “zatar,” featuring sumac, thyme, salt, and sesame seeds.
The Falafel Bar is the kind of place where you can literally close your eyes, point your finger on the menu, and be guaranteed a great meal. And did I mention it’s college-student-cheap?
Falafel Bar
1009 Elmwood Avenue
884-0444
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Speaking of cheap, this little hole in the wall is located almost directly across the street from the Falafel Bar. The owners didn’t spend a lot on the sparse décor. The service is counter only. But it’s crazy cheap, and the food is unique to Buffalo.
But not to Rochester. The owners of University Hots hail from the Flower City, and they brought their love and pining for a Rochester specialty called the “garbage plate” with them, though, rather than import the “garbage” moniker, University Hots classes up the name of the plate to “college plate.”
What it consists of is a styrofoam container loaded with ingredients. You get to pick them from a list, the components of which can easily be characterized as junk food heaven.
First, you select up to three different meats from a list of eleven. Yes, “cheeseburger” is listed as a meat, as are Rochester’s own “white hots.” [White hots are also a specialty of several Buffalo-area road stands, including the well-known Reid’s, in Lockport—editor.] After your meat selection, you may add up to two side dishes. These basically involve some form of fried potato, baked beans, or macaroni salad. The entire thing is essentially served mixed together in a trough, and then topped with your choice of ketchup, mustard, and a homemade hot sauce.
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The mixture was surprisingly good. It’s more about texture, since everything sort of blends together, flavor-wise. This is not a light lunch. You would do best to have this if your next available activity involves napping. We also tried a white hot, which is similar to the Bavarian weisswurst, split down the middle, fried, and served on a bun. It’s good to spread one’s culinary wings, even when we’re only going as far as Rochester.
University Hots
1028 Elmwood Avenue
332-3439
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Not technically on the Elmwood Strip, this charming little newcomer is a welcome addition to the gritty neighborhood near Amherst Street. The new owners of what used to be Tinney’s Bar and Grill have transformed it into a charming, modern Italian trattoria.
The friendly owners are gregarious and very inviting to their guests. Although the restaurant was packed on a recent Saturday evening, they turned no one away, and made everyone feel like family. The restaurant had only been open a few weeks and didn’t yet have its liquor license, but that should be resolved by the time you read this.
The menu is simple and cheap. The wall separating the two dining rooms is painted in black chalkboard, and the entire menu is written on the wall in chalk—a wonderful old-world touch. The most expensive item on the menu is $8.95. Yes, eight ninety-five. With bread and house salad. That can’t be beat.
The bruschetta is loaded with chopped tomato, garlic, and olive oil. The garlic bread is served covered in browned cheese. For our large party, the house salad, with a lemony oil and vinegar drizzle, was served family-style. The cold antipasto has generous portions of fresh mozzarella, salami, prosciutto, olives, artichoke hearts, provolone, and marinated roasted red peppers, and is served with tender, fresh Italian bread.
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For entrees, you can select pastas or sandwiches. We all opted for pastas of various types and toppings. I might add that the almost baseball-sized homemade meatballs are astounding. For an extra buck per, you have to try them.
The red sauce is very good, mildly-spiced puree of tomato, and it is blissfully unsweetened. It went very well with the spaghetti and meatballs, as well as the tender, ricotta-and-basil-filled raviolis. The lasagna was excellent: a perfect balance of cheese, meat, pasta, and sauce. If red sauce isn’t your thing, try the spaghetti with olive oil and sautéed garlic and onion. The olive oil they use is very aromatic extra virgin, and this combination was simple and good. The pesto is homemade and also features that great olive oil, pignoli, and basil.
The one thing that’s missing from this little bit of Italy on the West Side is an espresso/cappuccino maker. Also, the canolli are hand-filled, but had a bit of a runny consistency. But it’s early days yet for Vino’s and this place is absolutely worth a visit.
Vino’s
1652 Elmwood Avenue
332-2166
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Trendy and tiny Kuni’s is gone, and Kibarashi has taken its place. Two tables for four, two tables for two, and an L-shaped sushi bar. That’s it. (Outside, there are three tables for two, weather permitting.) The clever sushi bar consists of a zen garden covered with blue-tinted glass. For the impatient, Kibarashi offers take-out. For those willing to wait, the hostess will take your cell phone number and call you when your table’s ready, leaving you free to explore the Strip.
The soothing Japanese music and the attentive, super-quick staff certainly enhance your dining experience. The fantastic food will satisfy you and bring you back.
The menu features nigiri sushi and maki rolls—including specialty maki on the left side. We started with a delicious, hearty miso soup with noodles, plus a bowl of salted, tender edamame. We also tried a homemade pork shu mai (dumpling), which was lightly sautéed and served with a delightful ginger sauce.
We opted for sushi as our main entrees, and the order arrived extremely quickly. Deciding between two specialty maki was difficult; angry tuna and happy tuna. I opted for the former, being in the mood for the spicy chopped tuna topping a daikon and cucumber roll. Spicy? Yes. Unbelievably fresh? Absolutely.
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Expect great things from Kibarashi, a very new and very welcome addition to the Strip.
Kibarashi
752 Elmwood Avenue
200-7890
Attorney Alan Bedenko lives with his family in Clarence.
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