Revisiting La Dolce Vita By Alan Bedenko; photos by kc kratt I first reviewed La Dolce Vita as part of an overview of Hertel favorites and newcomers. I returned, knowing that the restaurant had undergone a change in ownership in the interim. I wanted to know if the food and experience remained as good as they had been in 2004. They’re better. Under the watchful eye of new proprietor Russ Runfola, Jr., La Dolce Vita has a new and improved menu, excellent service, and fantastic food. The restaurant’s décor hasn’t changed. It’s intimate, clean, and comfortable, and the bar area still looks like it was airlifted directly from Italy. During more temperate months, you can dine al fresco. The service is spot on—there when you need it, without being pushy. We started with some excellent minestrone, bursting with fresh vegetable flavor. Fresh Italian bread is served with dinner, and the soup makes for some good dunking. The spaghetti with red sauce and a couple of optional meatballs was outstanding. The sauce was fresh and homemade, served with a heaping portion of spaghetti and some delicious meatballs. I opted for a dish called petto di pollo, Italian for chicken breasts. As advertised, it features two large breasts, sautéed in a pan with portobello mushrooms, onions, and sundried tomatoes. Served over a fantastic, creamy roasted onion risotto, the dish also includes wine and chevre cream sauce. I love eclectic dishes like this, served with fresh and delicious ingredients. We also tried a special—fettuccine in butter served with several magnificent, huge grilled scampi. Everything about it was superlative, and the presentation was clean and simple. A bottle of wine accompanied our dinner, which ended on a high note—fresh, creamy gelato served just as it is in the old country, popping with intense flavor. Try the hazelnut and the chocolate. La Dolce Vita hasn’t changed much on the outside, but the food has improved exponentially. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth every penny. The new owner of this old-world-style bistro has brought it to the next level. La Dolce Vita 1472 Hertel Ave. Buffalo 446-5690 iloveladolcevita.com Alan Bedenko (abedenko@gmail.com) is a lawyer who lives in Clarence with his wife and daughter. Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top