Salvatore’s: we know the decor.
What about the food?
By Alan Bedenko
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Photo by Elizabeth Licata.
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Thinking it was just another red-sauce joint, my first meal there was veal parmigiana, and I wasn’t so overwhelmed by it that I thought I’d ever return. Also, my misconception about the restaurant was such that I wore a pair of cargo shorts to that long-ago dinner. While we were served despite my sartorial faux pas, I felt rather uncomfortable.
I quickly discovered that I was all wrong about Salvatore’s. Due in part to embarrassment, I didn’t return until this summer.
We had a large party (ten people), including kids as young as fourteen months old. This being an impromptu family reunion of sorts, we wanted a special-occasion place that could accommodate us on short notice.
I fired up the ol’ Macbook and clicked over to www.opentable.com. I registered, logged in, and was able to select from availability that came in directly from the restaurant. It made the process remarkably easy. No back and forth with the staff as to when we could be accommodated; all I had to do was scroll.
The facility is simply massive, and at least two wedding parties were going on simultaneously in private rooms during our visit. The maitres d’ (plural) stand in what could very well be an airport check-in area or hospital triage unit. We checked in and made our way to the intimate bar—complete with faux-starry sky and shooting stars—for a pre-dinner drink while we awaited our table.
The men’s room has a massive collection of model cars in a glass case. The women’s room? Barbies. Barbies everywhere. (I know this only via cellphone snapshot.)
The décor has to be seen to be believed, and chances are most Western New Yorkers have seen it at one time or another: massive chandeliers, mirrors, lifesized wax figures, and tchotchkes everywhere. This restaurant is among a few special-occasion establishments in the area, but the reason for it goes beyond ambiance. What is palpable from the moment one enters is that the service is going to be head and shoulders above anybody else, from the valets on up.
We were accommodated by a team of waiters and servers who were knowledgeable, energetic, and friendly. Specials were recited and explained coherently, and questions were informatively answered with a smile.
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Photos by Jim Bush.
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When I do these reviews, I often order the specialty of the house. Given that Steak a la Russell was the first entrée listed on the menu, and that it included the name of the restaurant’s proprietor, I figured that would be the best way to go.
It was the best way to go. Buttery tenderloin was sautéed to a perfect pink, with mushrooms and “Russell’s special seasonings.” Every single bite was outstanding. The tender, moist meat paired with grilled summer veggies and mashed potato was simple and tasty. All dinners include salad, your choice of potato, vegetable, ice cream, and coffee or tea.
The fresh salmon had beautiful color and texture, and looked as if it had just come off the boat. Prime rib was as tender and juicy as it gets. Got kids? Ravioli was on the menu as a special. When you order a steak, for a small extra charge you can get it topped with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, and even blue cheese crumbles. Someone at our table got salmon Wellington, which is exactly what it sounds like. As just about any meat can be made better with puff pastry, this is something I will have to return to experience.
The portions are enormous, so prepare to take things home. Also, order a variety and pass it around family-style, since you probably won’t finish yours alone anyway.
We opted out of dessert, being comfortably full of meat and red wine. The experience at Salvatore’s, from the exquisite service to the surprisingly delightful food, makes it clear that its reputation as a special-occasion place is well deserved.
Salvatore’s Italian Gardens
6461 Transit Road, Depew
683-7990
Alan Bedenko is a Buffalo attorney, blogger, and political activist.
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