By William C. Altreuter, Alan Bedenko, Ron Ehmke, Joe George, Jessica Keltz,
Peter Koch, Elizabeth Licata, Vicki G. Marshall, Kevin Purdy, Chris Schobert,
Joe Sweeney, Margaret W. Toohey, and Jennifer Wutz-Lopes
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Another downstate transplant, Zetti’s is one of only a handful of Buffalo-area places serving up authentic New York City style thin-crust pizza. Massive slices of delicious pizza are available, as are great subs, full meals, and calzone/rolls. There is no substitute.
Best cheap choice: A slice of whatever’s out that day is around $2.75. Just cheese—or maybe cheese and pepperoni—is the best way to truly experience the flavors and mouth-feel of genuine NYC pizza.
Also recommended: The eggplant roll features bits of breaded, fried eggplant wrapped in mozzarella cheese and pizza dough. Served with a side of great sauce, it is unbelievable, and only $4.50.
The scene: The New York Times and Buffalo News are floating around the front seating area, which is always bustling with activity. At any given moment it could be populated by suburbanite families, businesspeople, UB students and professors, and neighborhood families. A big plasma-screen TV is an added touch. The quieter back room is better for a sit-down meal.
3500 Main St. (University Plaza), Amherst, 831-8000,
www.zettis.com
—A.B.
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What may very well be the best breakfast place in town is also one of the most affordable. Located smack dab in the middle of the rejuvenated UB South Campus area of Main Street, Amy’s Place offers up a no-frills mix of classic American and Lebanese fare that attracts students and professors alike.
Best cheap choice: Before 9 a.m., a breakfast of two eggs, home fries, and toast is only $.99.
Also recommended: Whether you’re vegetarian or not, you’ll enjoy the wide selection of veggie burgers. Ranging from $4.75 to $5.75, you can choose from no less than thirteen varieties, including Florentine and Spanish.
The scene: Don’t expect the quietest breakfast of your life: Amy’s tends to overflow with the noises of a full restaurant of animated diners, as well as a front-of-house kitchen. But through it all, the place retains a youthful, welcoming vibe.
3234 Main St., 832-6666
—J.S.
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The word “legendary” gets thrown around quite a bit. So I’ll avoid it here. But Papa Jake’s on Elmwood near Amherst Street is pretty darn close. Papa Jake’s is on the other, sometimes forgotten section of Elmwood, the path to Kenmore. But even though it isn’t truly part of the Elmwood Strip, it has developed a reputation as one of the city’s favorite bars and restaurants. (I’ve never heard anyone say a bad word about it. In Buffalo, that’s rare.)
Best cheap choice: The fries, well done ($2.25/$3.25). Before I had ever set foot in Papa’s, I was told, sternly, that if I was ever to dine there, I should order the french fries, well done. And I did. And they were great. And not overpriced. The bar is well-stocked, and for cheap beer lovers, offers Genny Cream Ale on tap (drink at your own risk).
Also recommended: I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad meal here, and can especially recommend the Buffalo wings and barbecued ribs. Is everything on the menu cheap? No, not really. But it’s all affordable, and it’s all good.
The scene: After-work crowd, assorted drunkards—you know the drill. The interior is dark-times-three, which is ideal for tears-in-your-beer. But there’s enough light to eat and drink, so quit yer bellyachin’. There’s also a patio, which, in nicer weather, allows for a genuinely dreary view. Who cares? Papa Jake’s is about the inside, because that’s where the fries are.
1672 Elmwood Ave., Buffalo, 874-3878
—C.S.
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For my money, the best pizza in town. Nothing fancy, nothing innovative, none of that sweet sauce garbage. There’s a reason why La Nova has found success as a mail-order business, shipping frozen pies overnight to ex-Buffalonians that have to endure the pizza in North Carolina. Chumps.
Best cheap choice: While there are approximately 19,782 menu items, don’t be fooled. The Family Pak ($35.60, or $8.90 split four ways) includes a large cheese pizza with one topping and a bucket of wings.
Also recommended: If you’ve seen the Attack of the Killer Tomato films and are now opposed to all things tomato-based, the white pizza ($2.70 a slice) is a safe bet.
The scene: Feels just like home, especially if you have your order delivered.
371 West Ferry St., 881-3303
5151 Main St., 634-5151
www.lanova.com
—J.S.
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Scanning the menu at Falafel Bar is somewhat like reading a book titled “101 Ways to Prepare Chickpeas, Eggplant, and Tahini.” And that’s fine, considering that these Mediterranean staples are healthy and—when fresh and prepared with due diligence—absolutely delicious. Sit down and tour the cuisines of Greece, Lebanon, Israel, and Arabia.
Best cheap choice: Even though it’s essentially chickpeas on chickpeas, the falafel and hummus wrap ($5.99) features the restaurant’s title food, as well as its distinctively nutty-tasting hummus. As with all wraps, it’s served with homemade pickled vegetables.
Also recommended: The chicken skewers platter for $9.75.
The scene: Intimate is the name of the game here, as the kitchen opens into the cozy dining room, where the handful of small tables are washed in the warm yellows, reds, and oranges of the Mediterranean.
1009 Elmwood Ave., Buffalo, 884-0444
3689 Sheridan Dr., Amherst, 831-3980
www.falafelbar.com
—P.K.
Off The Wall
(for brunch)
This restaurant has found success over the years with its charming fusion of fine dining and antiquing—you can go home with a delicious meal in your belly, and a kitchen table strapped to the hood. And Off The Wall’s brunch is no less unique; it’s offered on Saturday and Sunday, and features a simple, hearty menu, at prices that are as unpretentious as the “for sale” décor.
Best cheap choice: Make your own omelet ($9). We go with gouda, bacon, mushrooms, and brunoise peppers. If you don’t, we get it: you don’t trust us anymore. Remember when we used to trust each other? Served with some of the most scrumptious, least greasy home fries in town.
Also recommended: If you’re in the mood for a liquid brunch, look no further than Off the Wall’s Asian Mary ($7), a potent, sake-based Bloody Mary topped with an artful veggie garnish.
The scene: Saturday morning is simply delightful; it’s less busy than Sunday, making it easier to appreciate the sunny atmosphere and savor some blessed hair of the dog.
534 Elmwood Ave., 884-9580
www.offthewallonline.com
—J.S.
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Among a host of contenders, this small Greek eatery has been rising to the top of everyone’s list. Why? Maybe because it also offers classic diner selections, i.e., items that do not include feta or pita. Or maybe because it’s an island of laid-back, trend-free comfort on Elmwood.
Best cheap choice: The classic meatloaf dinner is $7.99. All souvlaki dinners are $9.99 and accompanied by elegant salads.
Also recommended: For all-day breakfast types, there is char-broiled Polish sausage with eggs, home fries, and toast for $5.99.
The scene: This place is beautifully-designed, with well-spaced booths and tables, tiled floors, plants, and artwork. In summer the large front windows, often open, lend a patio ambiance.
510 Elmwood Ave., 886-9175
—E.L.
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It’s all in the family. Five generations of Santasieros have kept this venerable establishment running at the same location since 1920, serving up a slew of Italian standards at rock-bottom prices.
Having built its reputation on the complimentary plate of spaghetti that came with every nickel bottle of beer bought during the Depression, Santasiero’s billed itself as the “working man’s restaurant,” a branding that still holds true today.
Best cheap choice: The heaping full plate of spaghetti with a meatball ($5.95) is a classic that will fill your stomach and your take-home container.
Also recommended: The pasta fasoola is the stuff of legend here, since the Santasieros introduced the specialty dish to the Queen City. The beef on weck isn’t half-bad, either, considering it’s the only non-Italian menu item.
The scene: Set in the first floor of a sprawling, three-story house painted in the red, white, and green of Italy’s flag, the dining area jumps straight out of the 1940s. Doorbell buzzers placed along the dining room’s perimeter call the waitress, and there are enough hat hooks to accommodate the entire cast of The Untouchables.
1329 Niagara St., Buffalo, 886-9197,
www.santasieros.com
—P.K.
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A great embodiment of the flavor of the Lower West Side (literally and metaphorically), this unassuming eatery serves several dishes you won’t find anywhere else unless you’re lucky enough to get invited to somebody’s house for dinner. The menu’s in Spanish with English translations where needed.
Best cheap choice: Entrees are generally under ten bucks no matter when you dine, but lunch specials (including pork chops and chicken stew, and all served with excellent beans and rice) are $3.99 between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. weekdays.
Also recommended: If you don’t know the cuisine of Latin America beyond Mexico, ask your server for suggestions. Don’t miss the fried plantains.
The scene: Homey and busy, with a mix of locals and downtown professionals, many of whom have been frequenting the place for more than a decade now.
549 Niagara St., 885-2233
—R.E.
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Vargas Takeout is one of the oldest Puerto Rican restaurants in Buffalo. In its third incarnation Vargas has moved from the busy intersection of Niagara and Connecticut Streets and is now ensconced on a residential corner on the very edge of Allentown.
Best cheap choice: There’s a full menu, but what this place is known for is its pernil sandwich (roast pork shoulder). It’s slow roasted until literally falling from the bones. Six dollars will get you a large sandwich stuffed full of greasy and salty pork that melts in your mouth. You’ll swear you won’t eat the whole thing but won’t be able to stop ’til it’s gone (it’s that good).
Also recommended: Other good choices include arroz con pollo (chicken and rice), pastelillos, and pastilles (meat-filled pastry).
The scene: You’ll know you’re there when you see the handwritten sign at the curb. The feel inside is a mix between someone’s home kitchen, in half-finished renovation, and a disheveled delicatessen. There are a couple of tables, walls adorned with pictures of Jesus, President Kennedy, and Puerto Rico; Spanish music blares from a boom box. The owner carves the meat himself, usually on the open oven door.
272 Hudson St. at West Ave., 881-6296
—J.G.
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More than just a source of nourishment, Betty’s is a great place to join or run into friends (or gaze longingly at attractive strangers, if that’s your game). Tucked away on a quiet residential corner in Allentown, this intimate spot offers plenty of vegetarian options without excluding the carnivores, and it’s become a popular spot for Sunday brunch.
Best cheap choice: Charlie’s Breakfast Burrito, $7.25 for a hefty, well-stuffed meal-in-a-tortilla, supplemented with zesty home fries and a bit of fruit.
Also recommended: The omelettes ($7) are always a good bet, and the daily specials are often truly special.
The scene: Inside, Betty’s doubles as an art gallery; in warm weather, the outdoor patio is delightful, if you don’t mind a few bees investigating your burrito. Bonus points for the framed, thematically appropriate undergarments in the men’s room.
370 Virginia St., 362-0633
—R.E.
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Lagniappes is a funky little (and I mean little) restaurant in the heart of lower Allen Street’s sizzling restaurant/bar scene. The restaurant specializes in New Orleans food (lagniappe means “a little something extra” in Creole patois).
Best cheap choice: The chef won a Taste of Buffalo award for his chicken-and-sausage gumbo (cup $4; bowl $7), and this alone is worth a visit. Redolent of smokiness and thickened with brown roux and okra, this is the real deal. Chock full of chicken, sausage, vegetables, and rice, a bowl of this steaming goodness and a couple of slices of bread will make a full meal.
Also recommended: Jambalaya and red beans and rice are other good choices.
The scene: This is a teeny restaurant whose wood-paneled dining room measures maybe ten feet by ten feet. There’s enough seating for about twelve people; there’s also a small patio in the summer months. If you’re the claustrophobic sort, takeout is your best bet.
224 Allen St., 883-3663
—J.G.
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Situated on the corner of Allen and Elmwood, the Towne Restaurant is an Allentown institution. It’s also one of the few Greek diners in Buffalo that has not morphed into a trendy, upscale sort of place.
Best cheap choice: What brings me to the Towne is the open gyro sandwich ($7.15). And what makes their gyro unique is that the meat mixture is made in-house. It’s a highly seasoned mixture
of sautéed ground beef and lamb. With pita
and a Greek salad it’s a complete meal.
Also recommended: Other good choices are chicken souvlaki and the ample breakfast items.
The scene: The atmosphere is pseudo Greek taverna: a large open space with high walls, arches, wooden beams, and heavy utilitarian wooden tables. You’ll feel comfortable here in any form of dress. The clientele offers a veritable cross section of the area’s demographics—from police officers and starch-collared lawyers and politicians to families, artist-types, young hepcats, and other neighborhood locals. Everyone eats at the Towne.
186 Allen St. at Elmwood, 884-5128
—J.G.
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Known primarily as an upscale pan-Asian restaurant with a fun happy-hour scene, Papaya is surprisingly reasonable when it comes to lunch. And it’s great to have the option of interesting Asian cuisine.
Best cheap choice: Try the pad thai; the chicken and vegetarian versions both cost $7 at lunchtime.
Also recommended: For a light lunch, the tom yong goong (spicy shrimp soup) or the spicy Korean soup, both $4, can be paired with a spring roll, summer roll, or other appetizer. Five lunch appetizers run $5 or less.
The scene: Well-dressed people who could probably afford the much higher dinner prices here ($18 for pad thai seafood at dinner, versus $11 in the afternoon, and many dinner entrees north of $20).
118 West Chippewa St., 856-2444,
www.papayarestaurant.biz
—J.K.
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This is one of the newest and best options for a downtown lunch—a resource of a different kind from a facility already rich in little-heralded treasures, the Central Branch of the Buffalo and Erie County Public Library.
Best cheap choice: The duet of soups with petite salad, fresh bread, and a small slice of a happy ending: the cookie of the day. For $5.50, it’s obviously the best choice for lunch.
Also Recommended: Everything! The quatro fromage (basically a fancy grilled cheese and tomato, served with field greens and miniature homemade cookie) is delicious high-quality comfort food for $5.50. The Tuscan spinach salad combines strong flavors like shredded gouda, artichokes, and marinated mushrooms for $6.50. And the soups ($2.50 for a cup or $3.50 for a bowl), which change daily, always go over well.
The scene: Office workers hovering over your table, waiting for you to get up like you’re sitting in a parking spot on UB’s North Campus. Get there before noon if you can to beat the rush.
One Lafayette Square in the Erie County Public Library, 858-7127, www.fablescafe.com
—J.K.
Gino and Joe’s
For a fast, hearty, filling, and consistently good lunch downtown, you can’t beat Gino and Joe’s. No counter staff is more efficient and no pizza more satisfying.
Best cheap choice: Veggie or meat stuffed pizza, $4.95 for a meal-sized slice and a side of marinara.
Also recommended: Any of the combo deals like the jumbo ham calzone for $5.30.
The scene: Harried families, suit-wearing business types, and an Erie Community College student here or there.
Main Place Mall, 856-4340
—J.K.
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Though the Top of the Plaza, a hallowed dining location for Buffalonians for decades, is no more, M&T still offers great lunch options for downtown workers.
Best cheap choice: The salad bar at the Fountain Plaza location, where $.27 an ounce translates to less than $5 for an entire pound of salad. And it's quality salad, too, with spring mix, baby spinach, bean salads, croutons, sunflower seeds, two kinds of cheese, and a variety of fresh vegetables from which to choose.
Also recommended: Any of the deli sandwiches, which are served with your choice of sides (usually baby carrots, corn chips, pretzels, or potato chips) and a pickle and run less than $5.
The scene: Co-workers from M&T and
other nearby offices, eating together and talking shop.
One Fountain Plaza (second floor) and One M&T Plaza (tenth floor)
—J.K.
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