TAKE ONE
Nice and easy: Singing the praises of Sinatra’s
By Vicki G. Marshall and Margaret M. Toohey; photos by kc kratt
Veal Francaise, ravioli and meatballs, and lamb chops.
According to Barbra Streisand, Frank Sinatra represented “the epitome of what singing is all about: Beautiful sounds, smooth as silk; effortless, impeccable phrasing; stylish, intelligent, and full of heart.” Much the same can be said of our dining experience at Sinatra’s, even though it is not strictly named for the famed crooner. In 1981 John Sinatra turned a former hot dog stand into a restaurant he dubbed Sinatra’s Trilogy (with a tip of the hat to one of Frank’s last albums) in honor of his three sons. Today it is owned and operated by one of those sons, head chef Michael Sinatra, but John still comes in every morning to make the sauce and is often on the scene. The restaurant has earned a reputation for fine dining and was named one of the “10 Best Restaurants in Western New York” by the City and Regional Magazine Association.

Last updated in 2000, the interior décor has held up and shows little sign of a decade’s wear and tear. While the cosy bar area features regulars catching up on the events of the day or the week, the dining room maintains a quiet, subdued ambience. The menu offers traditional Southern Italian dishes handed down from the Sinatra family repertoire and refined over the years to reflect contemporary comfort food. We began our meal with two appetizers, both special that evening: rice balls (arancini) and an antipasto plate. The rice balls, better than some we have experienced elsewhere, were delicate—an amazing feat for a dish comprised of ground meat and cheese, surrounded by rice and deep-fried. A lovely marinara sauce completed the effect. The antipasto platter, designed for one but generous enough for at least three, consisted of mixed Italian meats, roasted peppers, olives, and fresh mozzarella cheese finished off with extra virgin olive oil and a drizzle of a balsamic vinegar reduction. We were also served a complimentary “campanatina”—the Sinatra’s version of campanata, including eggplant, tomatoes, and capers. The accompanying bread was an excellent pre-entrée addition, crusty without being too tough, and tender at the same time. Each of us enjoyed generous house salads nicely presented with house dressing and crumbled bleu cheese.

For her entrée Margy ordered the classic Southern Italian dish, cheese ravioli with a meatball ($19). The ravioli was cooked to perfection, rich and eggy with just enough texture to ensure not turning sloppy when cooked. Although she savored each morsel, Margy announced she was going to force herself to save half of the dish to enjoy the following day. Our friend went with a Sinatra’s stand-by, the veal Française ($30). This classic recipe—veal dipped in a delicate egg and cheese batter sautéed in a lemon butter sauce—reminded our guest of what he called the best version anywhere, served at Joey’s Italian Restaurant in Syracuse at Carrier Circle. He also compared the dish to one he has often enjoyed at Lombardo’s on Madison Avenue in Albany. From what the Foodies can ascertain, that puts Sinatra’s in pretty good culinary company. Vicki chose one of the evening specials: a pair of double-thick-cut lamb chops dry-rubbed with rosemary and other herbs and grilled perfectly ($34).

Entrees are accompanied by your choice of pasta, risotto, greens, or zucchini. If your interest is classic Southern Italian cuisine, then Sinatra’s would be a perfect choice. For example, you could choose from braciole made with pork cutlet, osso bucco cremolata (in this case a pork shank as opposed to a veal shank) on a bed of risotto, or Sunday Pork in the Sauce. There are also several chicken dishes: Milanese, breaded chicken breast served with lemons and sautéed greens; Marsala, sautéed with fresh mushrooms, butter, herbs, and Marsala wine; Piccata, sautéed in butter, lemon, white wine, and herbs;Parmigiana, breaded chicken breast topped with mozzarella and the house sauce; and Diavolo,with mild or hot marinara sauce served over pasta.(Veal is available in many of the same traditional styles.) As for classic pasta dishes, consider the lasagna layered with braciole and ricotta; Con Sarde, fresh sardines, tomatoes, raisins, fennel, and pine seeds; or Pasta Michael, with olive oil, escarole, capers, black olives, garlic, and onions.

The service was excellent and our waiter, Tyler, was attentive without being intrusive. If you’re in the mood for classic Italian food—sophisticated yet comforting—in a warm atmosphere, then a trip to Sinatra’s should be on your list. There is no big secret to be uncovered here, just good food using the best ingredients prepared with understated gusto and expertly served. Reservations definitely recommended.

Sinatra’s, 938 Kenmore Ave., Buffalo, 877-9419

Vicki G. Marshall is a graphic designer. Margaret M. Toohey is CEO and owner of the Lewiston Insurance Agency.


SUBSCRIBE NOW

Back to the Table of Contents

Back to Top