SECOND HELPINGS Shango is always worth a return By Alan Bedenko; photos by kc kratt Shango’s bar features a mammoth selection of beer and wine. An unexpected but much-appreciated perk to writing food reviews for Buffalo Spree is the opportunity to judge a handful of Nickel City Chef battles. To the uninitiated, Nickel City Chef is a localized version of the Food Network favorite “Iron Chef.” Battle is waged between two local chefs who work for or own a locally owned restaurant, and the secret ingredient is always a locally sourced farm product. The Farm to Fork movement is growing in local popularity, and Nickel City Chef’s creators, Feed Your Soul, are at the forefront of its promotion. I judged an epic battle between Nickel City Chefs Paul Jenkins of Tempo and Jim Guarino of Shango. Guarino narrowly defeated Jenkins in that match, where the secret ingredient was pork product from T-Meadow Farm in Niagara County. While both chefs’ dishes were delicious and masterfully executed, I was particularly impressed with Guarino’s willingness to take risks with the ingredients. I confess to not having dined at Shango in some time; Guarino’s NCC win necessitated a return visit. Reservations at Shango are accepted and recommended. We were promptly greeted by a cheerful maitre d’ and taken to an intimate wooden booth. Note to parents: we went at an early hour, and the tablecloth was topped with crayon-friendly paper for the kids. There is seasonal patio seating by the sidewalk, and the room is dark and calming, but not stuffy. There is a private dining room in the back, as well as a bar featuring a great selection of beer and wine. Our server was quick, funny, informative, and responsive. Our drinks came quickly, as did a basket of small bread squares—white, multigrain, and sweet corn—accompanied by a delightful olive oil concoction. We started with a pair of diametrically opposed soups—New Orleans-style gumbo and gazpacho. The gumbo was thick and hearty, packed with rice, okra, sausage, and chicken. The broth was dark and mysterious, revealing sweet and sour tones with each sip. The gazpacho was thick with tomatoes, and featured a spicy little cayenne kick. Any restaurant that features macaroni and cheese as an entrée deserves to be held in special esteem. Shango’s features a trio of cheeses and a panko rosemary crust, together with a little sprinkling of spice. It had the consistency of Alfredo, and decadent is the best way to describe it. The buttermilk fried chicken is as crispy on the outside as it is moist and tender on the inside. We in the northern half of the country don’t always appreciate fried chicken if there’s not a cartooned Colonel involved, but this southern staple is a wonder when done right. And Shango does do it right, serving a couple of crispy, moist pieces of chicken over creamy roasted garlic mashed potatoes drenched in a homemade andouille sausage gravy. Southern comfort food done with love and fresh ingredients invariably produces mouthwatering results. One of the nightly specials was a truly revelatory dish: a massive tower of braised, BBQ pork shank tender enough to fall right off the bones. The meat had a smoky flavor that was complemented with a savory serving of green onion grits and sauteed, cheesy Swiss chard. This perfect combination of flavors—the sweet, tender smoke of the pork and the savory chard and grits—made for a truly incredible dish. Dinner for three with three glasses of wine and no dessert came to about $100. Entrées run around $20, and the menu also features po’ boys and sides such as sweet potato and truffle fries. Most dishes feature a variation on a Cajun theme, heavy on the sausage and seafood. The Sunday brunch is among the most beloved and talked-about in WNY. Chef Guarino has a knack for putting together dishes that are not easily found in this area, and for using fresh ingredients that are equally difficult to find. Skillfully creative, his restaurant deserves its stellar reputation and a place on anyone’s “must try” list. And if you haven’t been to Shango lately, rediscover it. Shango Bistro 3260 Main St., Buffalo 837-2326 www.shangobistro.com Alan Bedenko is a frequent Spree restaurant reviewer. SUBSCRIBE NOW Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top