TRAVEL Roughing it with elegance at Glendorn Story and photos by Elizabeth Licata Glendorn as seen in late August: The entrance to the Big House. Combining a history of industrial development with a legacy of natural beauty, Northwestern Pennsylvania has much to offer the WNY daytripper and weekender. There are fascinating small towns, wide swaths of unspoiled Alleghany forest, and quite a few resorts, B&Bs, and small inns that are destinations all by themselves. One resort that’s only about ninety minutes south of Buffalo has it all: history, sophistication, and gorgeous natural surroundings. Welcome to Glendorn, a fascinating time capsule of the good life—as it was lived in the early twentieth century, and as it’s been updated for the demands of today. In 1916, Clayton Glenville Dorn and his son Forest invented a novel way of extracting oil from previously abandoned Pennsylvania reservoirs. Their company prospered and the Dorn family grew to include three close-knit generations. In 1928, C. G. Dorn acquired the land that would become Glendorn, which he intended to use as a family retreat, with a main lodge called the “Big House,” and, over time, several surrounding cabins to accommodate the extended Dorn clan. The 1,280-acre site includes Dorn’s favorite trout streams and lakes, as well as forested Alleghany foothills—perfect for hiking, horseback riding, and cross-country skiing. In 1995, the estate was opened to the public, but remained under Dorn ownership until last year, when it was purchased by its current owner J. Clifford Forest, who is in the process of adding a $5 million renovation to the lavishly appointed Relais and Chateau property. A picnic for two by Skipper Lake and riding instructor Tanya poses in front of the new tack room with two of her charges. The view from one of the private cottages under renovation—the aptly named overlook. A weekend at Glendorn is a unique combination of hearty outdoor activities—fly fishing, skeet shooting, and hiking—with indoor pampering: exquisite gourmet dining, in-room spa treatments, and beautifully appointed accommodations in historic buildings. You can take a grueling four-mile hike on the “most difficult” Cherry Path, but your reward can be a fancy picnic lunch on fine china and spotless linens, personally delivered to your cabin or to one of the lakes, followed by a refreshing dip in the resort’s classic outdoor pool or a spa treatment. Then it’s time for a cocktail on the terrace, followed by a five-course tasting menu with a wine pairing for each course. Afterwards, you can play pool, cards, or read a book in one of the Big House’s lounge areas or go back to your cabin—many of the cabins have their own living rooms. In winter, the Great Hall’s roaring fireplace—two stories high—is a magnet for guests, and there are over thirty smaller fireplaces on the property, between the guestrooms and other interior spaces. Skeet shooting is one of the most popular activities here during any season. During a recent visit to Glendorn, I saw people learning how to cast a fly (it actually didn’t look that hard), had a picnic on Skipper Lake, went horseback riding on the Cherry Path, and tasted some of best food I’ve had anywhere. I also toured some of the in-progress renovations that the new owner hopes will keep his resort relevant for those who like great rooms, loft bedrooms, Jacuzzis, and other more contemporary appointments. It all looked great, but I have to admit I liked the circa-1929 side of the resort just as well. And no renovation could improve on the natural surroundings—whether you traverse the trails on foot, cross-county skis, or on horseback, there are breathtakingly beautiful trees (black cherry, ash, beech, birch, and more) and wildlife (fox, deer, wild turkeys, blue heron, even bald eagles) to be seen around every bend. Glendorn’s cuisine needs no updating; chef Joe Schafer regularly features local produce and meats on his inventive menus. Our favorite meal included a local beet risotto and bison tenderloin with green peppercorn compote and foie gras. The wine cellar stands up to the quality of the food. You can order a modestly priced (but excellent) Oregon pinot noir or choose from one of the first-growth Bordeaux and fine California cult wines on offer here. As authentic experiences that are not mediated by a video screen or a plastic facsimile become ever rarer, Glendorn stands out. Here, you’re as close to nature as it’s possible to get—but you’re also surrounded by comfort and civility. Elizabeth Licata is editor of Buffalo Spree. SUBSCRIBE NOW Back to the Table of Contents Back to Top